tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-45113122447342606682024-02-20T07:40:30.440-08:00What? Me paint?A Blog dedicated to Tutorials for table top gamers and paintersBlack Bardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08112485219629037405noreply@blogger.comBlogger16125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4511312244734260668.post-64030617855584562932012-06-09T21:24:00.001-07:002012-06-09T21:24:08.647-07:00Dire Wolf AKA Fenris Wolf Tutorial<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<h3 class="post-title entry-title" itemprop="name">
Dire Wolf AKA Fenris Wolf
Guide by:Blackbard</h3>
This tutorial can also be found at: <a href="http://www.paintbard.blogspot.ca/">http://www.paintbard.blogspot.ca/</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV5HipkeQGCj6Nh7insM5KZ-0GNXQfnwHK05KQTHbFx4O3qhiV-yJBG16F2VNsq0j9PoVMhxU4pMeQl2Z_ep7QLoi-qbsuYOzurpQzHKIGRqRCdR-re9U_G9d-7945nz9kCZMnHWfHuuiy/s1600/P1000905.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" closure_uid_3nvu5c="3" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV5HipkeQGCj6Nh7insM5KZ-0GNXQfnwHK05KQTHbFx4O3qhiV-yJBG16F2VNsq0j9PoVMhxU4pMeQl2Z_ep7QLoi-qbsuYOzurpQzHKIGRqRCdR-re9U_G9d-7945nz9kCZMnHWfHuuiy/s320/P1000905.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">I don’t know about you, but when I picture a dire
wolf, it is not as a creature that shambles along, sloughing pieces of itself
and fertilizing the landscape. My vision of a dire wolf is that of a sleek and
very large canine predator, capable of reducing men to urine soaked pants and
tears just as easily as turning them into bloody ribbons upon which the pack
will feed. One of the latest incarnations of this comes from the mind of George
R.R Martin, in the form of house Stark and their pets, while many years ago my
mind brought to life the descriptions found within the odd Dungeon and Dragon
monster manual. Or, does anyone remember the reference to a
Vulg?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<a name='more'></a><br /><a href="" name="more"></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Helping bring this vision to life is the new
“Fenris” wolf kit made by G.W. It is meant as a 40k model, but thanks to the
lack of mechanical bits, and lasers attached to their backs, it can be used so
very easily within a fantasy setting. All that is lacking are cavalry bases,
which I happened to have extra of.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri;">My personal vision for these “dire wolves” is of
massive creatures that roam the hills and forests from whence my undead army
general hails. Instead of undead wolves being raised to serve the master, I
picture an unholy pact between these living creatures and the vampire lord.
Perhaps it’s a mentally sent command, or the ability to speak the tongue of
beasts, but these living creatures roam the outer edges of the army, seeking,
hunting, and hungry, ever hungry.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Speaking of hungry,
here is the first wolf, up to table-top standard...which is as far as I want to
go with him. The rest of the pictures are a bsic step by step, as I made it as
easy on myself as possible to paint these creatures.<br />Cheers,<br />Bard<br />
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<td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5d-IuZndlodJp0Sb-HFhdSXpFVbZ4J1OUVEvIBxld4WNdIxRmu1iTJwHg6GwGGc6Rkv87G_yzVW9pmDpndpIm6Zv9UvPScWJPJXCJoGS2Bxb0FM7ImZx30nK4lSz-Gbc81bOZSqT9GXDg/s1600/P1000880.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" closure_uid_3nvu5c="4" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5d-IuZndlodJp0Sb-HFhdSXpFVbZ4J1OUVEvIBxld4WNdIxRmu1iTJwHg6GwGGc6Rkv87G_yzVW9pmDpndpIm6Zv9UvPScWJPJXCJoGS2Bxb0FM7ImZx30nK4lSz-Gbc81bOZSqT9GXDg/s320/P1000880.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Plastic and base, rdy for
undercoat</td></tr>
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<td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX7xVUA7Bh2jUNHedBtN7MpbRLt3FY9u6j6B7iTsaRf6iriDjiVdbIVaJHaanJsDCPk4xR8y7k6FMqNZMtscLevYQO_awCR3eBiU9fJstDg2-Tqs6oibHoYP1Y1jMRGP9IvvVmzErXlOWR/s1600/P1000887.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" closure_uid_3nvu5c="5" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX7xVUA7Bh2jUNHedBtN7MpbRLt3FY9u6j6B7iTsaRf6iriDjiVdbIVaJHaanJsDCPk4xR8y7k6FMqNZMtscLevYQO_awCR3eBiU9fJstDg2-Tqs6oibHoYP1Y1jMRGP9IvvVmzErXlOWR/s320/P1000887.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">White GW
undercoat</td></tr>
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<td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9IuPB55r_3xfWJ2dCI-SCx_M-epT5Svx5-DYX7360DATPczecyJy38whkKp1ja1miE7VuiR5rOoe-sk4ppyAnORd3ha79xrX_WYvN3HTGo8wzCp2F-WkJVF2o01rsGDs8GM1G23yO4ZjM/s1600/P1000897.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" closure_uid_3nvu5c="6" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9IuPB55r_3xfWJ2dCI-SCx_M-epT5Svx5-DYX7360DATPczecyJy38whkKp1ja1miE7VuiR5rOoe-sk4ppyAnORd3ha79xrX_WYvN3HTGo8wzCp2F-WkJVF2o01rsGDs8GM1G23yO4ZjM/s320/P1000897.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">watered down wash of Sepia and
Devlan mud</td></tr>
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<td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDyuXl1SXDIdm6kN1GbXLySef0LMJobR5lfkSV7dX6YgUSL5oYQEK0hq1YwwUNv5-lWsgDkdCTIIA2Jb5G4Oo02cZWvdviJ8uNskKqFOAa5t_r2G6Nj8ZW8An0uR-a8J1U7hGSZmkWD3S-/s1600/P1000898.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" closure_uid_3nvu5c="7" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDyuXl1SXDIdm6kN1GbXLySef0LMJobR5lfkSV7dX6YgUSL5oYQEK0hq1YwwUNv5-lWsgDkdCTIIA2Jb5G4Oo02cZWvdviJ8uNskKqFOAa5t_r2G6Nj8ZW8An0uR-a8J1U7hGSZmkWD3S-/s320/P1000898.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Second coat of same
wash</td></tr>
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<td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXlJUP1VGTn7GDnc3kXEQng1HhcTcbWqCdTMY0b9-6STUH4RRyEtoWwwZOBbcHicyQRuWnhHbxDwErbVlvxli27Xo2RoYcv1iG6dIywSz9mSJ2L1Kzkze1hgRkVyAJu3y5eBNSMgxIMK4y/s1600/P1000899.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" closure_uid_3nvu5c="8" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXlJUP1VGTn7GDnc3kXEQng1HhcTcbWqCdTMY0b9-6STUH4RRyEtoWwwZOBbcHicyQRuWnhHbxDwErbVlvxli27Xo2RoYcv1iG6dIywSz9mSJ2L1Kzkze1hgRkVyAJu3y5eBNSMgxIMK4y/s320/P1000899.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">VERY watered down brown paint
(as glaze)</td></tr>
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<td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYmxO78XtXJ9FHKFk-_jfvtXPu_cRNkVaUKdL-CT2vAP2yIuixvAQvv86Lqk17Y6NEP0iViDgT_CReqrazNqPoGGuz61YVl3BotbuU0KOwCaRTbscX35t0nQWzLoz_PCfw2mwXmVQUQ_MY/s1600/P1000900.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" closure_uid_3nvu5c="9" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYmxO78XtXJ9FHKFk-_jfvtXPu_cRNkVaUKdL-CT2vAP2yIuixvAQvv86Lqk17Y6NEP0iViDgT_CReqrazNqPoGGuz61YVl3BotbuU0KOwCaRTbscX35t0nQWzLoz_PCfw2mwXmVQUQ_MY/s320/P1000900.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stonewall gray
added</td></tr>
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<td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnGSWxfAsiTEbSAJ9QwC7Ath0IHTw59Frl0WnIISoDxKzMOTNUpTAmQdBszP8n4axC7rYWJkMy_1OFPAB_ELrdAHD3VWucLCwhIuftLZk_VKYoz-fJeorgtEAlAIoTw2YVa0zyP0IRt-kB/s1600/P1000901.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" closure_uid_3nvu5c="10" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnGSWxfAsiTEbSAJ9QwC7Ath0IHTw59Frl0WnIISoDxKzMOTNUpTAmQdBszP8n4axC7rYWJkMy_1OFPAB_ELrdAHD3VWucLCwhIuftLZk_VKYoz-fJeorgtEAlAIoTw2YVa0zyP0IRt-kB/s320/P1000901.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Badab black wash added over
gray</td></tr>
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<td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjwFh9D_lEHta26N5U3ZE-VKAJ12QXRGY4nWMJoLyfSBGOOmcv5FS-hqRdbzaIb4Clb0Jbb7_dan8_UnobIKlSJNjU_Hjvmjm-5iuaBPr8L1LAEYCBS0RucT6zy8K62qUiNn2kBRt96eWn/s1600/P1000902.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" closure_uid_3nvu5c="11" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjwFh9D_lEHta26N5U3ZE-VKAJ12QXRGY4nWMJoLyfSBGOOmcv5FS-hqRdbzaIb4Clb0Jbb7_dan8_UnobIKlSJNjU_Hjvmjm-5iuaBPr8L1LAEYCBS0RucT6zy8K62qUiNn2kBRt96eWn/s320/P1000902.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picking out white with ahem,
Skull white and a nose and lips black</td></tr>
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<td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgUqBspQNY48iA_WKqFXl85cv5UEjli-W0AW41sr9UDZUy86TaHvPq4iDdvrT4iAdokxby0kqswUtd8sdKzXp4ieqO0DHI58e2DHziOPpgwxmCphDVSg447RP53D22OpRfdDTZ8gpOrFgo/s1600/P1000903.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" closure_uid_3nvu5c="12" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgUqBspQNY48iA_WKqFXl85cv5UEjli-W0AW41sr9UDZUy86TaHvPq4iDdvrT4iAdokxby0kqswUtd8sdKzXp4ieqO0DHI58e2DHziOPpgwxmCphDVSg447RP53D22OpRfdDTZ8gpOrFgo/s320/P1000903.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A bit more badab, some white,
eyes and the rock on base</td></tr>
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<td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwjH7-sMwojakxsIMbAnH-W3poQRlAfbb7-7wit9Eaxe1naU-KaJYRfH3qJRku2vOc-ZZ0y04MlCQBrWcN-tMcyWckeHc4KgjaPUKotKOrRhO8EWI-aVneE_UD0Be0FCdrgl7QOl3cvcc2/s1600/P1000905.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" closure_uid_3nvu5c="13" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwjH7-sMwojakxsIMbAnH-W3poQRlAfbb7-7wit9Eaxe1naU-KaJYRfH3qJRku2vOc-ZZ0y04MlCQBrWcN-tMcyWckeHc4KgjaPUKotKOrRhO8EWI-aVneE_UD0Be0FCdrgl7QOl3cvcc2/s320/P1000905.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">English Uniform on base and Ivy
(brass), brown edging - done</td></tr>
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<td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC6cxgFf1H2FEPnQ8z3c9wvhaF4XM1893wvJHdH-Lz8uE_RYxETK4eGrScmjvyuVUTsZPvx6DT98KI1Ao-g9otMqNvVnljKNxp4HH8EFI-ohKB1ImAc2I9gj8mxyI9x2gNuDzGQzXJ7D3-/s1600/P1000906.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" closure_uid_3nvu5c="14" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC6cxgFf1H2FEPnQ8z3c9wvhaF4XM1893wvJHdH-Lz8uE_RYxETK4eGrScmjvyuVUTsZPvx6DT98KI1Ao-g9otMqNvVnljKNxp4HH8EFI-ohKB1ImAc2I9gj8mxyI9x2gNuDzGQzXJ7D3-/s320/P1000906.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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<td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Done from
side</td></tr>
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<td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6_DQncrStj1jZI5Fti9urSOzpOtlN8z8yhGR44IUdq-YDZmgChF8urXg6RXzK_rvBznTc1k4wax_Q5AO7hkSwnJKhMKNHLzzT6AjxOAUUBMLmGkCvwqrEtdE8EKX43NQFl_yrXmSAw_JK/s1600/P1000907.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" closure_uid_3nvu5c="15" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6_DQncrStj1jZI5Fti9urSOzpOtlN8z8yhGR44IUdq-YDZmgChF8urXg6RXzK_rvBznTc1k4wax_Q5AO7hkSwnJKhMKNHLzzT6AjxOAUUBMLmGkCvwqrEtdE8EKX43NQFl_yrXmSAw_JK/s320/P1000907.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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</div>Black Bardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08112485219629037405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4511312244734260668.post-87719327609941813832012-03-01T19:25:00.001-08:002012-03-02T12:08:29.230-08:00Vampire counts, Skeleton painting Tutorial<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Vampire Counts, Skeleton Painting Guide</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">By: Blackbard<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizYkneGDo5eI5Wl39wcg_7vsR3GEwyxOgzanBQfWuwnV5eCud1ejLUv1JmZhkbxipPe75OGCC5_c4PjIXTWutifpr7CGbXElRGGAcLtDigWaDp2rykQ4wt92oCFMO8tu_0VzXERIhoOfE/s1600/P1000802.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizYkneGDo5eI5Wl39wcg_7vsR3GEwyxOgzanBQfWuwnV5eCud1ejLUv1JmZhkbxipPe75OGCC5_c4PjIXTWutifpr7CGbXElRGGAcLtDigWaDp2rykQ4wt92oCFMO8tu_0VzXERIhoOfE/s320/P1000802.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">I have discovered a quick method of painting ranks of skeletal troops for an undead army. I have been told that the models look good, and with a nice base they look great on the table top. <o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Step One: Cleaning/Basing<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">1.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">A) Assemble miniature. Make sure to remove flash and mold lines as these ruin any model no matter the quality of paintjob you go for. <o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.5in;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">B) Once the model is glue to the base, add gravel or other large stones that will be painted later on. I typically crazy glue the larger stones onto my bases and once dry paint elmers glue onto the rest of the base and then dip it into a container of mixed sand sizes to create random coverage.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt 0.5in;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">C) If you want water effects to be added on, leave a small area sand free, or simply wait for the gravel to dry and scratch a shape out later.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Step Two: Primer<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">2.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">A) Spray prime your model using Army Painter Bone color. This will save you a lot of time and effort in the future. Spraying this colored primer on your model is how I save myself not only time, but keep the army looking uniform in color. Future washes will be what add variety to the models as it pools differently on each model.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt 0.5in;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">B) Make sure to get the primer onto the gravel you glued to the base as the sprayed paint will act as an extra layer of bonding to keep the sand secure on the base.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Step Three: Blocking Colors<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">3.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">A) Red, blue, or whatever color you have for an army is painted on here. Whatever you do, just try to be careful and not get it onto the bone areas. If you do, then bleached bone is thankfully very close to the primer color so that you can touch things up no problem.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.5in;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">B) Metallics are also blocked in. I try to add a bit of variety by adding bronze or copper. That lets me oxidize it later.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt 0.5in;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">C) Snakebite Leather is also applied where needed.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Step Four: Mud wash<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">4.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">A) Liberally apply Devlan Mud to the entire model (except the base). Allow it to dry. Check to make sure that there is some of the wash in the eye sockets and other cavities across the skull.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt 0.5in;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">B) If you want to darken the metal areas further or add more depth, Badab Black is a good wash to try. It is not necessary however to the overall look to your rank and file models.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Step Five: Rust and corrosion<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">5.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A) I use Forge-world weathering powders on the metallic areas. I find that the most critical one is the old rust, as it gives it a dark color that you would normally find on most old metal surfaces. Light rust and Orange rust can also be added next…normally in areas where water would pool.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt 0.5in;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">B) Cloth areas can have wear and tear added to them, but it is not necessary. I would avoid this as painting dirty clothing on 30+ models might strain my sanity. <o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGUne-L4cjB5QC_uvGYF3xoUStutU4xde7vo8aRyTIrUaMAWd9eXEqwkwzqtoh3UIb3jiuvNS4Susj6igtTiaWJOS50WcWK-6sjfppK3KPH02TmMTWVAEeD47dhTSQhMNFfl4wJed5r_I/s1600/P1000788.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGUne-L4cjB5QC_uvGYF3xoUStutU4xde7vo8aRyTIrUaMAWd9eXEqwkwzqtoh3UIb3jiuvNS4Susj6igtTiaWJOS50WcWK-6sjfppK3KPH02TmMTWVAEeD47dhTSQhMNFfl4wJed5r_I/s320/P1000788.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt 0.25in;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Step Six: The base<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">6.</span><span style="font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; font: 7pt/normal "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: Calibri;">A) My own army uses English Uniform (Vallejo - Model Color 921) as the base color. I apply this to the entire base, making sure not to touch the skeleton feet.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.5in;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">B) Highlights are dry-brushed onto a DRY layer of paint. For the dry-brushed layer I use English Uniform mixed with skull white.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.5in;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">C) Large stones are picked out using a dark grey color (I use stonewall – Vallejo). They receive a coating of Devlan mud once the grey is dry.<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt 0.5in;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">D) Water effects are added by having an area with the base material removed down to the base. I then paint a dark green across this entire surface. Once this is dry, I take a turquoise and gently paint “ripple” lines along the edges. Once these are dry, I apply water effects. Remember it will dry small, so apply generously. (Not so generously that it spills over the edges of the gravel and sand though!)<o:p></o:p></span></div><br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt 0.5in;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">E) Static grass or other choice of material is added once the water is dry. I have been using “Army builder’s” new clumps of grass. The undead army is using “Swamp tufts” to be specific.<o:p></o:p></span></div>Cheers, Blackbard</div>Black Bardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08112485219629037405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4511312244734260668.post-646944374909283812011-03-09T21:47:00.000-08:002011-03-09T21:53:48.245-08:00Tutorial: Miniature Photography by: Nesbet<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="date-outer" closure_uid_rh3ye5="9"><h2 class="date-header">originally posted Sunday, February 27, 2011</h2><h2 class="date-header"><a href="http://nesbetminiatures.blogspot.com/">http://nesbetminiatures.blogspot.com/</a></h2><div class="date-posts"><div class="post-outer"><div class="post hentry"><h3 class="post-title entry-title"><div class="date-posts"><div class="post-outer"><div class="post hentry"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/" name="8050183771584843966"></a><br />
<h3 class="post-title entry-title"><a href="http://nesbetminiatures.blogspot.com/2011/02/tutorial-miniature-photography-part-1.html">TUTORIAL: part</a> 1, 2 and 3 <div class="post-header"><div class="post-header-line-1"></div></div><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5054/5481162932_d63f015804_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5054/5481162932_d63f015804_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></h3><div class="post-body entry-content"><a name='more'></a><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; text-align: left;"><h3 class="post-title entry-title"><a href="http://nesbetminiatures.blogspot.com/2011/02/tutorial-miniature-photography-part-1.html">TUTORIAL: Miniature Photography, part 1</a> </h3>I was <a href="http://www.reinodelosolvidados.cl/main/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=38893#38893"><span style="color: #888888;">asked to tell how I make the pics</span></a> of my minis, because nowadays, they look "fine". For me, they were just OK, they could be better with better lighting and a correct setup. That's why I decided to pay a promise I made to myself (xD) and build a lightbox and portable photography studio for less than 40 USD.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Short story: a friend of my dad went to the USA some weeks ago, and I was about to ask him to bring me a Portable Photo Studio, like <a href="http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Table-Photo-Studio-Light/dp/B001MYASTG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1298782592&sr=8-5"><span style="color: #888888;">the ones sold in Amazon</span></a>.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />
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In the last minute, I changed my mind and decided to ask for a <a href="http://www.dickblick.com/products/colour-shapers-tools/"><span style="color: #888888;">colour shapers set</span></a>, then I promised myself that I would make a better portable photo studio using less money. (Now I have the whole colour shapers set, and I'm a happy man! xD)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5097/5481162882_9dedc781b4_z.jpg"><img border="0" height="254" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5097/5481162882_9dedc781b4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
So, this was the perfect oportunity, to explain how I make the pics, to pay my promise and to make my pics better! Hoping that I haven't bored you too much, lets get building a portable lightbox and photo studio, for less than 40 bucks!<br />
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I began with the 6x6mm architecture wood sticks (2 USD for twelve 50cm pieces), cutting 4 in halves. I selected two more pieces, and another one, wich I cut 6mm. And then, using my hobby drill, drilled some holes and pinned them before gluing the wood sticks to form two 25x25cm square frames and one 25x50mm rectangular one.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5292/5480561763_02f57e59bc_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5292/5480561763_02f57e59bc_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5096/5480561283_59cf6834a3_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5096/5480561283_59cf6834a3_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5135/5480560829_f650122838_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5135/5480560829_f650122838_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Then I cut a blister package in four 90° bended pieces an used the bunch of paper clips (8 USD for 40 assorted colour pieces) to hold the frames in place, giving form to the lightbox.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5051/5481161360_408651a34d_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5051/5481161360_408651a34d_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5219/5480559873_558b5701aa_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5219/5480559873_558b5701aa_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5256/5480558415_d64b90155d_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5256/5480558415_d64b90155d_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5140/5480559377_242ff053f6_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5140/5480559377_242ff053f6_z.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
As you can see, the lightbox is quite fragile, but sturdy enough to mantain shape for itself. That's mainly because of the bended pieces of blister package and because of the pinned stick I cut 6mm before. One hole on the side of each squared frame and voilà.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5094/5481159036_4439fec387_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5094/5481159036_4439fec387_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Then I cut two 25x25cm sheets of butter paper and one 25x50cm one and have plenty enough to build like 8 lightbox more (bought 1 square meter for less than 0,5 USD). With the help of the clips, I attached the butter paper to the frames.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5176/5481159938_c9813a28ea_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5176/5481159938_c9813a28ea_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5299/5481158584_f5d86c4ac0_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5299/5481158584_f5d86c4ac0_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5259/5481158146_3251cb1be0_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5259/5481158146_3251cb1be0_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Before doing this, I tried diffusing light with several papers: diamond paper, butter paper, normal paper, craft paper, TNT fabric, and the best diffusing light is the butter paper (also, very cheap!). Then I got some big drawing block sheets and attached them with the help of more clips (kinda happy for having bought 40 xD). And I opened the package of my brandless mini-tripod (that i bought for 3 bucks!) to try it.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5098/5481157654_93ef93728d_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5098/5481157654_93ef93728d_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5293/5481157068_64ff280751_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5293/5481157068_64ff280751_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">At this point, the studio looked like this: </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5137/5480555423_f9555fbf30_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5137/5480555423_f9555fbf30_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
But then I added 2 lamps (4 bucks each) with 2 Twister Phillips energy saving 23W cooldaylight bulbs that light like 100W bulbs (wich costed 5.5 USD each). Yeah, bulbs were more expensive than the lamps. That's because lamps don't matter, but bulbs are critical for miniature photography. I suggest energy saving lamps, because they almost don't produce heat and consume less. The twister ones are my favourites and they should light like 100W or more. And the most important part: cooldaylight, or natural daylight. All the other stuff just spoils the pictures. Trust me, <u>propper lighting is crucial</u>.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5011/5480554913_000b675e48_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5011/5480554913_000b675e48_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Summing up, I bought:<br />
- wood sticks 2USD<br />
- paper clips 8USD<br />
- butter paper 0,5USD<br />
- mini tripod 3USD<br />
- 2 lamps 4USD each<br />
- 2 bulbs 5,5USD each<br />
So, mission accomplished! Overall I spent ~32 USD to make my lightbox and photo studio. I forgot to make the final pic, but unassembled, it fits beneath my desk, over the drawers, in a 3cm high space between those 2 surfaces! Of course the 2 side lamps should be kept in their boxes when not needed ;D<br />
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Well, that's it for now. I hope you liked it so far, and hopefully, that this enourages you to make a better lightbox, if you haven't got one already!<br />
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In the second part of this tutorial, I'll explain a bit about lighting and how to make good pics. And in the third and last part... just guess!</div></div></div></div></h3><h3 class="post-title entry-title"> </h3><h3 class="post-title entry-title"><a href="http://nesbetminiatures.blogspot.com/2011/03/tutorial-miniature-photography-part-2.html"><span style="color: #444444;">TUTORIAL: Miniature Photography, part 2</span></a> </h3><div class="post-header"><div class="post-header-line-1"></div></div><div class="post-body entry-content">Hi again. Let's begin with the second part of this tutorial, this time it will be discused how to take the pics, and common mistakes made by hobby entusiasts.<br />
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The idea, is to stop making this thing of pics...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5217/5490480623_be0d559eb8_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5217/5490480623_be0d559eb8_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5177/5491073848_78941efd04_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5177/5491073848_78941efd04_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
...and begin making this sort of pictures, to be able to edit them and get some awesome images to display.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5140/5490480521_b8396b220f_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5140/5490480521_b8396b220f_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
First, let's understand what's <u>white balance (WB)</u>. Hopefully, you'll be lucky enough to have a (~50USD) digital camera with adjustable WB. If you don't, don't worry, you can compensate that with exposure compensation (xD).<br />
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So, what's WB? In few words, is the process of removing unrealistic color casts, so that objects which appear white in person are rendered white in your photo. Proper camera white balance has to take into account the "color temperature" of a light source, which refers to the relative warmth or coolness of white light. Our eyes are very good at judging what is white under different light sources, but digital cameras often have great difficulty with auto white balance (AWB) and can create unsightly blue, orange, or even green color casts. Understanding digital white balance can help you avoid these color casts, thereby improving your photos under a wider range of lighting conditions.<br />
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Blue, purple and grey casts: <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5057/5490480149_9873391c73_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5057/5490480149_9873391c73_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5100/5491073390_10e11c7a18_z.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5100/5491073390_10e11c7a18_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5060/5490480019_7bf5af62c5_z.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5060/5490480019_7bf5af62c5_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Correct and incorrect WB:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5215/5491073244_a6c44c8d9f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5215/5491073244_a6c44c8d9f.jpg" /></a><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5060/5491073228_6b4b23234c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5060/5491073228_6b4b23234c.jpg" /></a></div><br />
Color temperature describes the spectrum of light which is radiated from a "blackbody" with that surface temperature. A blackbody is an object which absorbs all incident light neither reflecting it nor allowing it to pass through. A rough analogue of blackbody radiation in our day to day experience might be in heating a metal or stone: these are said to become "red hot" when they attain one temperature, and then "white hot" for even higher temperatures. Similarly, blackbodies at different temperatures also have varying color temperatures of "white light." Despite its name, light which may appear white does not necessarily contain an even distribution of colors across the visible spectrum.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5015/5490479881_794c24a6d6.jpg"><img border="0" height="152" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5015/5490479881_794c24a6d6.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Note how 5000 K produces roughly neutral light, whereas 3000 K and 9000 K produce light spectrums which shift to contain more orange and blue wavelengths, respectively. As the color temperature rises, the color distribution becomes cooler. This may not seem intuitive, but results from the fact that shorter wavelengths contain light of higher energy.<br />
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Why is color temperature a useful description of light for photographers, if they never deal with true blackbodies? Fortunately, light sources such as daylight and tungsten bulbs closely mimic the distribution of light created by blackbodies, although others such as fluorescent and most commercial lighting depart from blackbodies significantly. Since photographers never use the term color temperature to refer to a true blackbody light source, the term is implied to be a "correlated color temperature" with a similarly colored blackbody. The following table is a rule-of-thumb guide to the correlated color temperature of some common light sources.<br />
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<table class="t1" style="width: 450px;"><tbody>
<tr><td><b>Color Temperature</b></td><td><b>Light Source</b></td></tr>
<tr><td>1000-2000 K</td><td class="left"> Candlelight</td></tr>
<tr><td>2500-3500 K</td><td class="left"> Tungsten Bulb (household variety)</td></tr>
<tr><td>3000-4000 K</td><td class="left"> Sunrise/Sunset (clear sky)</td></tr>
<tr><td>4000-5000 K</td><td class="left"> Fluorescent Lamps</td></tr>
<tr><td>5000-5500 K</td><td class="left"> Electronic Flash</td></tr>
<tr><td>5000-6500 K</td><td class="left"> Daylight with Clear Sky (sun overhead)</td></tr>
<tr><td>6500-8000 K</td><td class="left"> Moderately Overcast Sky</td></tr>
<tr><td>9000-10000 K</td><td class="left"> Shade or Heavily Overcast Sky</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Since some light sources do not resemble blackbody radiators, white balance uses a second variable in addition to color temperature: the green-magenta shift. Adjusting the green-magenta shift is often unnecessary under ordinary daylight, however fluorescent and other artificial lighting may require significant green-magenta adjustments to the WB. Fortunately, most digital cameras contain a variety of preset white balances, so you do not have to deal with color temperature and green-magenta shift during the critical shot. These are commonly used symbols for each.<br />
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The first three white balances allow for a range of color temperatures. Auto white balance is available in all digital cameras and uses a best guess algorithm within a limited range usually between 3000/4000 K and 7000 K. Custom white balance allows you to take a picture of a known gray reference under the same lighting, and then set that as the white balance for future photos. With "Kelvin" you can set the color temperature over a broad range. If you can, set it manually. Try some shots with different temperatures, select one and then go ahead.<br />
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The remaining six white balances are listed in order of increasing color temperature, however many compact cameras do not include a shade white balance. Some cameras also include a "Fluorescent H" setting, which is designed to work in newer daylight-calibrated fluorescents.<br />
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The description and symbol for the above white balances are just rough estimates for the actual lighting they work best under. In fact, cloudy could be used in place of daylight depending on the time of day, elevation, or degree of haziness. In general, if your image appears too cool on your LCD screen preview (regardless of the setting), you can quickly increase the color temperature by selecting a symbol further down on the list above. If the image is still too cool (or warm if going the other direction), you can resort to manually entering a temperature in the Kelvin setting. If you are lucky, maybe your camera hasn't these options, but gives you the choice of saving the pics in RAW files. If your camera supports them, you can set up the WB after the pics are taken.<br />
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Well, what to do if you only have AWB? (My previous camera was that way!) Then let's play with <u>exposure compensation (EC)</u>! Exposure Compensation is a feature of a camera that allows you to adjust the exposure measured by its light meter. Usually, the range of adjustment goes from +2 to -2 EV in 1/3 steps. This means that you can adjust the exposure measured by the light meter by telling the camera to allow more light in (positive exposure compensation) or to allow less light in (negative exposure compensation). Technically, you could take note of the exposure measured by the light meter, and then switch to Manual mode and adjust it manually yourself.<br />
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The best advices I can give (with my limited knowledge) are 1) set the exposure compensation manually before taking the real pics, view them at your PC and then choose the best setting; or 2) turn ON Automatic Exposure Bracketing (AEB). Many digital cameras now include Automatic Exposure Bracketing (AEB) where the camera will take the three shots with one press of the shutter release button: one at the camera measured exposure, a second at a negative exposure compensation (usually -1/3 EV, though some cameras allow you to specify the amount), and a third at a positive exposure compensation (usually +1/3 EV, though some cameras allow you to specify the amount). The normal 100USD cameras don't bring this option, so, let's go a bit deeper about the first advice.<br />
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When having your lightbox ready with your miniature, turn ON the programm exposure mode (designated by letter P). The Exposure Compensation button or menu choice is usually marked by a square containing a plus and a minus symbol. Some cameras, though, just display "0.0" on the LCD screen. Check your camera manual for the specifics.<br />
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Turning on the Exposure Compensation button or menu choice displays a sort of "ruler" with zero in the middle and numbers on either side. A marker appears under the zero, which stands for the normal exposure your camera gives the picture. Using the arrow keys or a dial on the back of the camera, you can move this marker to a different position on the ruler.<br />
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Moving the marker to the "plus" side of zero makes your picture brighter. Placing the marker under +1 makes the image twice as bright as a normal exposure.Moving the marker to the "minus" side of zero makes your picture darker. Placing the marker under -1 makes the image twice as dark as a normal exposure.<br />
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Below you can see how changing the exposure compensation control affects the brightness of my Chaos Warrior with Halberd:<br />
(those are DIFFERENT PICS, using different EC in each) <br />
+2 EV<br />
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+1,7 EV<br />
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+1,3 EV<br />
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+1 EV<br />
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+0,7 EV<br />
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+0,3 EV<br />
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0 <br />
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-0,3 EV<br />
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-0,7 EV<br />
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-1 EV<br />
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-1,3 EV<br />
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-1,7 EV<br />
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-2 EV<br />
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With my lightbox and my setup ready, I decided that the best option for me this time is to set up the EC to +1EV. Now I'll take all the pics I need from that model, with the chosen setup (lamps, bulbs, position of the miniature, of the light sources) using EC +1.<br />
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Doing this "tedious" process (that only consumes 1 minute, and will help you to make nice pics), you'll avoid the underexposure and overexposure that are SO common in the miniature photgraphy.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5099/5490474323_7ebfcebc83_z.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5099/5490474323_7ebfcebc83.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5298/5490474259_7fc1e56916_z.jpg"><img border="0" height="271" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5298/5490474259_7fc1e56916.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5137/5490474207_b53284d43f_z.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5137/5490474207_b53284d43f.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Now, to finish this large wall of text and chaotic information, let me give you the last advices I have in mind to improve your photography skills.<br />
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Avoid having lines from bended paper, fabric or background. It will ruin your pic almost instantly, because the camera will have "more and different whites" to process. If you see, the upper part of the background shows a kind of white (pretty brownish, but doesn't matter for this example) and the lower part, looks different. Why, if both parts are from a single piece of paper? That's because of the light inciding in different angles and being reflected in different angles too. Try to use curved paper, block or fabric as background.<br />
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Avoid cellphone pictures if you are going to publish them. Really, they are not intended for this purpose. And let the tidy backgrounded images JUST for WIP shots. (I even regret having post some cellphone-pics, regarding being WIP shots)<br />
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Set up you light sources carefully. I've already suggested my favourites bulbs, but, how to set up them? Easy! The lateral ones should be on the same axis of the miniature. The upper light should be over the miniature (OH RLY? xD) but just between the camera and the object.<br />
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Never, ever, use flash to photography your minis. This will cause more shadows (that you should be avoiding!). The light produced by the flash it's just too much for miniature photography. Just give exposure compensation a try and you'll not want to try flashing your minis again. This will be specially useful for photography black, white and greyish miniatures.<br />
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And finally, activate the macro mode! I think most of you know what the macro mode is (that's why I forgot to mention this in the first instance xD), but anyways...<br />
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Macro and close-up photography can take the viewer to new and seldom seen vantage points. However, macro photography also often demands more careful attention to photographic technique and camera shake. When you magnify a subject, you also magnify movements caused by camera shake. Furthermore, small variations in camera position can also make huge differences in subject composition. It's therefore critical to either experiment with what you're capable of capturing hand-held, or to just always use a camera tripod. I strongly recommend having a small and cheap tripod (mine costed 3USD) and for even better results, try using your camera self-timer mode, or even a remote switch. These pics are fast made examples of the macro mode off and on.<br />
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Photos at high magnification have a correspondingly shallow depth of field. Precisely controlling the location of focus is therefore much more important than normal. This requires both artistic decisions about what should be in sharpest focus, but also technical decisions about how to make the most of this sharpness. The first pic illustrates the focus, badly located (focusing the 2nd rank of Chaos Marauders). <br />
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In the second, the location of the focus is set to the cloaks and shoulders of the Marauders.<br />
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Well, I'm already sorry for having bored you so much. Didn't want to make this part SO long, but I thought some basic concepts should be included. I really hope you can improve your miniature photography a little. If you can improve them just a little bit using some of this information, I would feel already paid and honoured.<br />
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As always, comments, critics and questions are welcomed!<br />
See ya soon, with the final part of this tutorial! (I promise it won't be this long xD I hope I can learn to make a little video to explain how to finish and add background to the pics using PS, faster than this epic long entry!)<br />
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PS: Please. To the owners of the above shown pics, PLEASE don't feel offended. I just selected some random pics to show some common mistakes. I tried to use every single pic I had, but weren't enough. If you want your pic to be removed, just drop me an e-mail and I'll do it instantly. ;D<br />
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EDIT: Added small paragraph about macro. Thanks to <a href="http://n810s-lizardmen.blogspot.com/"><span style="color: #888888;">N810</span></a> for ponting me <a href="http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5355507#post5355507"><span style="color: #888888;">that I've completely forgot to mention it</span></a> xD <br />
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<h2 class="date-header">Friday, March 4, 2011</h2><div class="date-posts"><div class="post-outer"><div class="post hentry"><a href="http://www.blogger.com/" name="866388785325447090"></a><br />
<h3 class="post-title entry-title"><a href="http://nesbetminiatures.blogspot.com/2011/03/tutorial-miniature-photography-part-3.html"><span style="color: #444444;">TUTORIAL: Miniature Photography, part 3</span></a> </h3><div class="post-header"><div class="post-header-line-1"></div></div><div class="post-body entry-content">Let's go with the final part of this tutorial! (at least for now, maybe someday I'll post something else about this xD)<br />
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Now it's time to talk about photo edition. Let's learn some basics about photoshop, to be able to slightly retouch something like the previous pic of my Chaos Lord with additional hand weapon...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5140/5490480521_b8396b220f_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5140/5490480521_b8396b220f_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
...and finish having something like this:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5058/5496006957_8421619605_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5058/5496006957_8421619605_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span id="goog_628901104"></span><span id="goog_628901105"></span><br />
Well, I tried doing a video of my desktop to explain this, but it was too heavy (60Mb) and it doesn't look good enough pasted in the blog. So, I made a slideshow instead!<span id="goog_628901104"> </span><br />
<span id="goog_628901104">As usual, bring the popcorn, take a seat, click the fullscreen button and enjoy.</span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><embed allowfullscreen="true" flashvars="offsite=true&lang=es-us&page_show_url=%2Fphotos%2F59451507%40N02%2Fsets%2F72157626067638931%2Fshow%2F&page_show_back_url=%2Fphotos%2F59451507%40N02%2Fsets%2F72157626067638931%2F&set_id=72157626067638931&jump_to=" height="300" src="http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=71649" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="400"></embed></div><br />
OK, this is the end of this long tutorial!<br />
I hope you find it helpful and specially I hope you can improve your photography skills a little. Maybe it's a little boring, and too much information, but look, this were my pics:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5177/5491073848_78941efd04_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5177/5491073848_78941efd04_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5217/5490480623_be0d559eb8_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5217/5490480623_be0d559eb8_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
And nowadays, they look like this:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5140/5490480521_b8396b220f_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5140/5490480521_b8396b220f_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5058/5496006957_8421619605_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5058/5496006957_8421619605_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Tell me. Isn't it worth such little effort? =D<br />
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Well, see ya soon, hope you like the final part of my tutorial!<br />
As always, comments and critics are welcomed! If you have any question, please tell me! I'll be glad trying to help you! ;D </div></div></div></div></div><script type="text/javascript">
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</script></div></div><div class="date-outer" closure_uid_rh3ye5="10"></div></div>Black Bardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08112485219629037405noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4511312244734260668.post-11263994420996191062011-02-01T18:13:00.000-08:002011-02-01T18:16:13.945-08:00Painting Skaven Plague Monks - Tutorial by Squeek Vermintide<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><h3 class="post-title entry-title">Painting Skaven Plague Monks - Step by step. </h3><h3 class="post-title entry-title">by: Squeek Vermintide @ <a href="http://chatteringhorde.blogspot.com/">http://chatteringhorde.blogspot.com/</a></h3><div class="post-header"><div class="post-header-line-1"></div></div><div class="post-body entry-content">After finishing my first 30 Skaven Plague Monks I thought I would post a step-by-step guide to the colours I used. I'm no painting expert, but these steps ended up giving me a unit painted to "tabletop" quality.<br />
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First, here is how the unit ended looking up:<br />
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Colours used: (All Games Workshop)<br />
Knarloc Green<br />
Codex Grey<br />
Tallarn Flesh<br />
Dwarf Flesh<br />
Dwarf Bronze<br />
Gunmetal<br />
Chainmail<br />
Mithril Silver<br />
Skull White<br />
Chaos Black<br />
Devlan Mud (Wash)<br />
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<div style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;">The process followed was:</div><div style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;"><b>A.) Undercoat and Base texturing:</b></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;"><ol><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-indent: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px;">After assembly, liberally apply PVA glue to base and dip in modelling sand.</span></span> </li>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-indent: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px;">Wait until dry, then undercoat. (I use Chaos Black spraypaint.)</span> </li>
</ol><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><b>B.) Base colours:</b></span></span></div><ol><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-indent: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px;">Fur: Calthan Brown.</span> </li>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-indent: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px;">Skin/ Tail/ Feet: Tallarn Flesh.</span> </li>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-indent: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px;">Cloth: Knarloc Green/ Codex Grey 1:1 mix. </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Follow this with a lighter Knarloc Green/ Codex Grey (1:2) on raised areas of cloth/ edges. (Robes)</span> </li>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-indent: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px;">Metal: Boltgun metal. (Weapons, belt buckles, staff tips, banner chains)</span> </li>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-indent: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px;">Leathers/ Belts: Snakebite leather. (rope belt, wristband, armour crosspiece on the back of the Clanrat.)</span> </li>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-indent: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px;">Banner: Knarloc Green.</span> </li>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-indent: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px;">Parchment: Snakebite leather. (Lighter shades will be applied later - see H. below)</span> </li>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-indent: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px;">Ornaments: Chaos White. (Skull pendants om troops, staves and banners etc.)</span> </li>
</ol><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px;"><b>C.) Apply Washes</b>: Liberally apply Devlan Mud Wash all over. (Parchment optional)</span></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px;"><br />
<b>D.) Reapply base colours</b>: Layered up lighter shades/ colours: </span></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: small; line-height: normal;"></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px;"></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px;"></span><br />
<ol><li>Skin/ Tail/ Feet: Dwarf Flesh on raised areas of face. NOTE: Unlike my Clan Rats, I didn't use Dwarf Flesh on the tails for these guys, preferring to leave them a darker, dirtier feel... </li>
<li>Metal: Chainmail or Mithril Silver applied to blade edges, nails etc. </li>
<li>Leather/ Belts: Snakebite leather/ Skull white (1:2 mix). </li>
<li>Flag: Knarloc Green/ Skull White (1:1 mix) on raised areas and into the center of the flag. </li>
<li>Parchment: Several layers of increasingly lighter shades of Snakebite Leather/ Skull White. </li>
</ol><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: small; line-height: normal;"></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: small; line-height: normal;"></span><br />
<ol></ol></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px;"><b>E.) Final Drybrushing:</b></span></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;"><ol><li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-indent: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px;">Base: Drybrush Calthan brown, then Tallarn Flesh.</span></span> </li>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-indent: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px;">Fur: (Optional): Drybrush Calthan Brown/ Skull White (50/50).</span></span> </li>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-indent: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px;">Metal: (Optional): Drybrush Mithril silver (Weapon edges) buttons etc. (e.g. Rivets if the model has a shield etc.) or just apply as an "Extreme Highlight" on the edge of the weapon.</span></span> </li>
<li style="margin: 0px 0px 0.25em; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px; text-indent: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px;">Robes: (Optional) Lightly drybrush Calthan Brown around the base of the robes.</span></span> </li>
</ol></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px;"><b>F.) Final Basing:</b></span></div><div style="font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 20px;"></span></span></div><div style="color: #ffeedd; font-family: Arial, Tahoma, Helvetica, FreeSans, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px;"><ol><li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Apply dabs of PVA glue onto the base and dip into green flock.</span></span> </li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Paint base sides Knarloc Green.</span></span> </li>
</ol><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">G.) Final Details: Banner</span></b></span></span></div><div><ol><li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Outline the Horned Rat symbol on the Banner in Chaos Black. Once satisfied, fill in. HINT: Practice first on a piece of paper at the same size as you will actually paint onto the banner. This will give you an idea of how it will look and it is good practice...</span></span> </li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Horned Rat eyes: Snot Green. When dry, lighten with a Snot Green/ Skull White mix (1:1)</span></span> </li>
</ol><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">H.) Final Details: Parchment</span></b></span></span></div><div><ol><li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Gradually build up to a lighter shade, using a Snakebite Leather/ Skull White mix in lighter and lighter shades.</span></span> </li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Carefully add symbols and script using a slightly watered down Chaos Black (and a fine detail brush.)</span></span> </li>
</ol><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Now I have some Clan Pestilens troops in my army....excellent!</span></span></span></div></div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><br />
</span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">*Squeek*</span></span></span></div></div></div></div>Black Bardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08112485219629037405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4511312244734260668.post-16232616260500604672011-01-23T21:27:00.000-08:002011-01-23T21:27:28.038-08:00Seb's Skaven Painting Tutorial<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div><b>A Painting Tutorial by: Sebastiaan B, a true devotee of the council of thirteen and clan Pestilens!</b></div><div> </div><div><b>Welcome</b></div><div>Welcome to the paint-your-furry-friend tutorial! Your basic clanrat. You probably have dozens of them sitting in front of you, all eager to be painted, so the object of this tutorial is to give you an idea how you could make them look good without spending hours on one miniature.</div><div>All my regular models such as rat ogres and plague monks essentially follow the same steps. Ready? Here goes!</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTI9yOXaVbt6WsCzbwwZYejeEd8mblKNUBMDLdj06HoHaSC8sZASmdSKtSs4o2JAR4ZbsDbovvy3LmgXDwQ-8Ek6ib9L4TKSgTb4z5QhKFXVmSvt26aFCii_qSEMh9zbRHqoC08pXKdlg/s1600/P1000472.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" s5="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTI9yOXaVbt6WsCzbwwZYejeEd8mblKNUBMDLdj06HoHaSC8sZASmdSKtSs4o2JAR4ZbsDbovvy3LmgXDwQ-8Ek6ib9L4TKSgTb4z5QhKFXVmSvt26aFCii_qSEMh9zbRHqoC08pXKdlg/s320/P1000472.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Georgeous Grey-Seer</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div> <a name='more'></a><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><b>Preparation</b></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">1. Clip the clanrat out of its sprue with clippers and use a little hobby knife to erase the last traces of imperfections as well as the mold lines (just scrape them off as it were). </div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">2. Glue all components of the clanrat (body, weapon, base, shield) together. I prefer to paint the shields separate while they are still on the sprue and clip 'em out later and stick 'em on when both the model and the shields are nicely painted.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">3. I use $3 resin glue on the base and drag the model through some hobby sand. A little tip here: while Games-Workshop (orrather, Citadel Miniatures) have great products, most things like sand, clippers and hobby knives are overpriced, so you can often find cheaper alternatives. I do swear by Citadel high quality paints and all the paints I use are from their range.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">4. I use some old-fashioned mat black Krylon spray paint that I picked up for a few bucks at Walmart to undercoat the model black. I always used black. If you forget to paint something that is hard to reach (which since you will be painting these miniatures fast, might be the case), such as armpits and the like, they will be automatically black/shadow. </div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div>5. If you have a movement tray prepared for this unit, spray it black, too!</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><b>Painting stage 1: base coating</b></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">1. I usually paint 5 or 10 models at a time and then line 'em up on my movement tray. The first colour I use is <i>Calthan Brown</i> from the Foundation range. I use it to paint the front and sides of my movement trays and all the fur on my rats. Don't be overly neat and take a long time, but as with every step in the stage, please make sure you cover 100% of the area you do want to cover. I also use this brown on all the shields.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Notice how with the hands I paint an area after the wrists brown as well, the same going for our snout and ears. The 'inside' of the ears I also make sure are definitely <i>Calthan Brown</i>.</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiC7dBiyRFA5bvk8JtEzgoTUYlTTqoljhAdn3enU0Z4Net4mg902-X0I9cHS9yENvPZxQ3VAZ6WUqq1RtwEkchlwp05MUlfDMpuSW9lzUDCkzGYA1jo_umnJhdPXvDU3wK8CIlWuLYHag/s1600/P1000467.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" s5="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiC7dBiyRFA5bvk8JtEzgoTUYlTTqoljhAdn3enU0Z4Net4mg902-X0I9cHS9yENvPZxQ3VAZ6WUqq1RtwEkchlwp05MUlfDMpuSW9lzUDCkzGYA1jo_umnJhdPXvDU3wK8CIlWuLYHag/s320/P1000467.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clan rat with spear and sheild</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">2. In this step we will 'recover' a bit of those brown areas on the hands, ears and snout with <i>Tallarn Flesh </i>from the Foundation range. Since you negotiate the proportion of brown-pink in the hands and snout, the line will be different for each of your Skaven and look natural. Also don't forget to paint its tail pink. Some people like painting the feet pink, too, but I'm not too crazy about that.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">3. Now take <i>Dheneb Stone</i> from the Foundation range and use it to paint the teeth and any horns sticking out as well as any 'bandages' if you will. On higher point-value models like plague monks or heroes or something, I will also use it on toe- and fingernails. </div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">4. If you're like me and you'd like to give your clanrats a sickly Pestilence colour, I can think of nothing better than <i>Gretchin Green</i> from the Foundation range. Use it to paint all the robes green. Again, as with all the layers, try to be fast and at the same time cover everything. Since we will be using washes later on, it's okay if you went a tiny bit over a brown area with this, for instance. These are 4 point models, you want them to look fun to play with/against, not for them to win a Golden Daemon, right??</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">5. Then use <i>Boltgun Metal</i> from the regular Citadel paints on all metal objects such as necklace-pendants, the hand weapons and the tip of the spears. I also use it on the shields. </div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">6. Take your <i>Snakebite Leather</i> from the regular Citadel paints to paint any purses and robes around the waist and so on.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">7. Use <i>Scorched Brown</i> from the regular Citadel paints for the staff of the spear or the hilt of the weapons.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">8. I use a now defunct colour called <i>Bronzed Flesh</i> to drybrush the sand of the base. A decent alternative is <i>Vomit Brown</i> from the regular Citadel paints. </div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">9. Finally I use <i>Calthan Brown </i>again to paint the sides of the base. Don't worry if the paint doesn't cover everything in one go, we'll give it another layer later on. You're done and are ready for stage 2!</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><b>Stage 2: Washing</b></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-7ujkf0JDfSh2TWuBN5LXPK8CsdtQeD0TDOJZjKniwufbnCScSDrDPTQ1mZZhj1TPsSss47TnLH4IdXnQf2CrzAsULO5U6J02pa2qZHmTMb0lTcB5J5xjJDG6OximqqndOkn1hJBN1JI/s1600/P1000468.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" s5="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-7ujkf0JDfSh2TWuBN5LXPK8CsdtQeD0TDOJZjKniwufbnCScSDrDPTQ1mZZhj1TPsSss47TnLH4IdXnQf2CrzAsULO5U6J02pa2qZHmTMb0lTcB5J5xjJDG6OximqqndOkn1hJBN1JI/s320/P1000468.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clan rat, with a dirty Spear</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">1. This stage is very simple. When your models are dry, and if you paint 5 or 10 at a time, the first one will be dry, it is time to wash them. No, don't put them in the tub (although, being Skaven, they could probably do with a good scrub), but get your Citadel washes out. I prepared a 1:1 mixture of <i>Thraka Green</i> and <i>Devlin Mud</i>. This will give your model the sickly green hint as well as shade it with the brownish colour. It's brilliant. Apply the wash liberally onto the model and shield. </div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">2. I personally like to use just <i>Devlin Mud</i> for the sand on the base. </div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Note: the rat in the picture was made before I created my mixed wash, what I did was use <i>Thraka Green </i>first and when that was dry, do the entire model with <i>Devlin Mud</i>. I found the result too dark, so I created the mixed wash, which I like very well. It's also a lot quicker!</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">3. If you want to, you can stop painting now. You should have a very nice rat model if you don't want to put more time into your massive units. I do this for my slaves, but I give my clanrats some more attention. If you're like me and you are willing to put a little more work, join me for stage 3...</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><b>Stage 3: Highlighting</b></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3378h74uYJLm7hrYxsebp3LnzGGYmrkc2H1dMi3GR12TngUBo8_eraW22Am8N2aG8vR0B3HztbMpAXktkkvZkoBWfmjLUYfaps6Jb2HeXbflV_f9GHngbmRb93yZBfwMXEpZDv0_BGqc/s1600/P1000478.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" s5="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3378h74uYJLm7hrYxsebp3LnzGGYmrkc2H1dMi3GR12TngUBo8_eraW22Am8N2aG8vR0B3HztbMpAXktkkvZkoBWfmjLUYfaps6Jb2HeXbflV_f9GHngbmRb93yZBfwMXEpZDv0_BGqc/s320/P1000478.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Weapon Team with a small conversion</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">1. Step by step we will use a highlight for each of the colours in the previous stage. Go and find your <i>Vermin Brown</i> from the regular Citadel paints range. Drybrush all the fur -- as well as the metal from the weapons -- with it. Use <i>Blazing Orange</i> from the regular Citadel paints to drybrush the metal part of the weapons again. The point is that some part of the weapons will be boltgun coloured, others brown and others even orange. This creates a nice rusty effect.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">2. Mix 1:1 <i>Tallarn Flesh</i> and <i>Elf Flesh</i> and highlight the snout, tail, hands and ears. I personally like to add a bit of water so the mixture is light and not too strongly contrasting. I highly recommend you learn how to blend. Essential what you do is apply a colour on top of another, like we're doing here, and use some water (e.g. old-fashioned spit) to drag the edge of the new colour out over the old colour area, so that you get a nice transition going on. If you do this, your models will greatly benefit and not look like a 10-year-old painted them. </div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">(Please forgive me if you are a 10-year-old and <i>keep on painting!</i>)</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">3. For the whiter areas, I used a dab of <i>Skull White</i> for the teeth and horns and <i>Bleached Bone</i> from the regular Citadel paints for the bandages here and there (including for instance whatever is underneath the spear tip). Again, I slightly water them down so the transitions are a bit smoother than they would otherwise be.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGH5EEdRVDroiTNcsGlPifywXSAcNf63wOVtpSGVmkFg3HSbnD2SaVgifyYtXeb-TbZY8B3Avo_Ceee_I1MzMMPvYMt2QOfxwp6VEJulclAmYLNe-aL_TrMkdH4o8paAN1exsBurpZ1rA/s1600/P1000487.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" s5="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGH5EEdRVDroiTNcsGlPifywXSAcNf63wOVtpSGVmkFg3HSbnD2SaVgifyYtXeb-TbZY8B3Avo_Ceee_I1MzMMPvYMt2QOfxwp6VEJulclAmYLNe-aL_TrMkdH4o8paAN1exsBurpZ1rA/s320/P1000487.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three of the 8 Rat Ogres</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">4. For the green I use nothing more than the original <i>Gretchin Green</i> that we used earlier to highlight the robes. Here your blending techniques will be most useful. I give emphasis to the bottom part of the robes and then sort of drag the colour upward. This gives a natural look to the clothing I find.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">5. Back to the metal. Open up your <i>Mithril Silver</i> from the regular Citadel paints range. It will give a nice contrast to our dark (and washed) Boltgun Metal. Now highlight the edges of the armour, any spikes, the metal on the shields and the tips of the weapons with this. Also be creative and create some 'scratch marks' on the armour by tracing small lines across it. That is where it has been hit by other swords or claws or whatnot! With the rusty weapons, also be a bit creative. The silver will show where the weapon was most corroded, so I used it to emphasize the orange areas of the blades/spear tips.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">6. I generally do not highlight leather areas, but for more 'prestigious' models I will use another layer of <i>Snakebite Leather</i>.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">7. I also do not highlight the brown from the spear shafts. Leave as is.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">8. The base is good as is. Apply another layer of <i>Calthan Brown</i> to the sides of the base. You will find that while applying the wash earlier, you'll have spilt a bit of wash on it. </div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6lNy53MqIO-VB0KIC0vLWPoGCHdGh-36ieoAFAX9umNZn-J91HWyvD0J8B9yvwVQAH7Q9sBUf1VZ00_KGS7yXy7ul87RuPkW9BMHNlOftSk779Z_zoV0kmAJ5e1M5et37_1o5_YE_pE0/s1600/P1000475.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" s5="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6lNy53MqIO-VB0KIC0vLWPoGCHdGh-36ieoAFAX9umNZn-J91HWyvD0J8B9yvwVQAH7Q9sBUf1VZ00_KGS7yXy7ul87RuPkW9BMHNlOftSk779Z_zoV0kmAJ5e1M5et37_1o5_YE_pE0/s320/P1000475.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Battle Standard</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">9. For nuts like myself, I enjoy painting eyes. It's fairly simple if you get used to it. My recipe for eyes is a horizontal line of <i>Chaos Black</i> in the eyes sockets. Then I will draw another horizontal line of <i>Skull White</i> (for humans) and a thin vertical line of <i>Chaos Black</i>. For Skaven, I use a similar process, except instead of Skull White, I will use <i>Blood Red</i> to give them that demonic character. Once you've painted hundreds of eyes, it'll be as easy as beating "PaintBard" in Warhammer. Since it doesn't take much time and will let simple non-painters oooh and aaah at the exquisite detail of your models, I always paint the eyes. Gives the model a bit more character.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">10. You might want to add a Skaven rune to some of the shields. I used <i>Blood Red</i> for mine, possibly highlighted with <i>Blazing Orange.</i></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><i></i>11. Lastly, I flock part of the base, by creating two patches of glue on it (nominate areas in which the sand may not have stuck superfluously for instance) and dragging the model through some <i>Scorched Grass</i> from the Citadel range. As mentioned earlier, you can probably get some cheaper flock somewhere else, but I have now done a few hundred models and am still on my first tub of Scorched Grass, so I'm not crying over a few bucks that I misspent.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><b>Afterthoughts...</b></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">I hope you are not crying either over your time misspent while reading this tutorial. You can use it for all your models. For rat ogres I suggest you wash the flesh areas after you highlighted them with <i>Ogryn Flesh, </i>as they will look rather horrible otherwise. For Plague Monks I gave their hoods a darker green colour, e.g. <i>Knarloc Green</i> from the Foundation paints range. The rest of their robes remain Gretchin Green as ever. Enjoy and feel free to leave questions and feedback!</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCBBub5DzKokNCxFnk-ndF1vel8gjrRCJB2I82LazuJ-ClmCxMkSCEvjvV-6xWpkD15hT7FZmpyXemn0bR2Kk2wTPKH1ISbfkEga5BWI_uwDKNdfRj8XT2mcunnPMtjXyWyq_wTKt0yGg/s1600/P1000495.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" s5="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCBBub5DzKokNCxFnk-ndF1vel8gjrRCJB2I82LazuJ-ClmCxMkSCEvjvV-6xWpkD15hT7FZmpyXemn0bR2Kk2wTPKH1ISbfkEga5BWI_uwDKNdfRj8XT2mcunnPMtjXyWyq_wTKt0yGg/s320/P1000495.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Box of obviously Cared for rats!!</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div>Seb.</div></div>Black Bardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08112485219629037405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4511312244734260668.post-89037921467160544862011-01-12T07:25:00.000-08:002011-01-12T07:25:24.648-08:00Painting Rust Effects by:Blackbard<h3 class="post-title entry-title">Painting Rust Effects </h3><div class="post-header"><div class="post-header-line-1"></div></div><div class="post-body entry-content">I have been asked several times now on how I paint rust onto my models. I thought it would be a better idea to not only show and explain how I do it, but what has inspired me on my travels across the great land known as Internet.<br />
<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigGugOb-QZxk3VXQvqbiFeo27jxjv35iDx_BGDK0le9XAsNyq2YhYsBU1j23bIYgCXDRNVS9NJfsLF7YmWDFITuqAGjNKExGFfgPoLH2WHAFQsTxzb1fK6-CbKfGzkj1sTjoxW_3P5iuBj/s1600/rust2009-05-06_09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigGugOb-QZxk3VXQvqbiFeo27jxjv35iDx_BGDK0le9XAsNyq2YhYsBU1j23bIYgCXDRNVS9NJfsLF7YmWDFITuqAGjNKExGFfgPoLH2WHAFQsTxzb1fK6-CbKfGzkj1sTjoxW_3P5iuBj/s200/rust2009-05-06_09.jpg" width="196" /></a>To start with, I originally used very little rust effects in my painting. I then got my hands on a great paint called Smoke. I used this on everything I could get my hands on, and still do to this day! But the one thing it did for me was to make me want to try and “dirty” my models. </div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Oh, it’s fine to have something dirty. But try explaining why you are carting something rusty or covered in mud, into the house to your wife! It doesn’t go over so great. But painting it on will work, it’s just so damn hard to make it look realistic!</div><a name='more'></a><a href="" name="more"></a><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Dirty and rusty have been a source of curiosity to me for years, and thanks to the internet, you can find all kinds of examples of it. I kick myself now, because I don’t have a documented list of all the fantastic examples of how to create the rust effect that I have come across over the years. One of the best sources I have gotten my hands on though is the following book: Forge World’s “Model MasterClass” Volume 1. Let me tell you, I will be buying book two when it comes out! This book is fantastic!!</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">RUST</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">My personal technique for rust is simple. Chainmail, followed by some of the new washes, and then apply rust. I have heard people trying all kinds of variances for this, but my simple method saves time and effort and comes out looking good. </div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">a) Basecoat metallic areas in Chainmail. I have moved to chainmail from Boltgun simply because of the washes. It really dulls the metallics, whereas in the past before washes Boltgun metal was dull enough to hit the mark for me. </div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div>b) Apply the washes. I love Devlan mud. I will always use it above any other choices. You can add Badab Black if you want to darken it and add an extra layer of complexity, but it’s not necessary.<br />
<br />
<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">c) Let it DRY!! Do not paint while the wash is wet. Go watch TV, or go to the bathroom or something. Just let it dry!</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">d) Check to make sure the wash is dry. If it’s not dry, repeat step C.</div><br />
e) Now for the rust. This is where I have three different methods. Firstly, you can create a mixture using white spirits like my book suggests. This isn’t a bad way to go, but beware, you are adding in oil paints etc to your painting style, and some people may be uncomfortable with that. This technique I combined three separate weathering powders, some burnt umber oil paint and white spirits. Once dry it is quite dark, looks great, and I finish it off with 2:1 (water to fiery orange) anywhere I want to change the color. I will add here that I think it needs to be applied in a patchy manner along full surfaces, or around bolts or other protrusions. Let it dry, and reapply anywhere you want the orange to ‘pop’ a bit more.<br />
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Second technique is using water and weathering powders. Load your brush and apply it to the powders you have on your painting palette. Go dark powders, followed by lighter orange powders once the dark is dry. Random dab the rusts in places to create a greater sense of visual. Remember that rust changes color depending on its age. Finish it off with the fiery orange technique.<br />
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The third technique is simple. Vermin brown paint, or parasite brown (any brown paint that has an orange element to it) mixed with water. Usually 2:1 mix of water to paint. Follow this up with the fiery orange from previous techniques.<br />
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A final technique that I have tried on some test models is the following: Begin by base coating all of the metal areas with Boltgun Metal. Then stipple it with Macharius Solar Orange to give it a rusty look. A wash of Devlan Mud and Badab Black was then applied to add shading.<br />
I have also begun using a technique known as painting Verdegris. This is the application of weathering to bronze/copper.<br />
<br />
I have found a couple of different ways to do this. Both are simple. The first and easiest is the application of Ice blue (heavily watered down) along areas that would allow water to sit in place. The second has been hawk turquoise, but I have had less success using this color. I have also seen some people add some green to either mixture. However you do yours, remember to water down your paints. Its easier to add successive layers of watered down paints then it is to remove a thick coat of paint.<br />
I am not the only person that paints rust in the world, thankfully. Many others have techniques that work wonders for them. I have decided to include many other recipes and various techniques for you to try. There is always one that speaks loudest to us, and I won’t pretend to assume that my methods are the best or only ones.<br />
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Screaming 3agle (<a href="http://striking3agle.blogspot.com/"><span style="color: #ff8900;">http://striking3agle.blogspot.com/</span></a>) has several excellent weathering techniques on his website. I wish I had the skills with an airbrush that he has. Some of his results are truly awesome! <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUQpYc7-G0UotkU7QoLkMl1Zxb8-H8dmbhcIi9_BoeQLtKVTiDpGwce5cEb117lQy1Q_sScG11caBIR8ybMnw1DQO_35ifHTvD0xHrwfgZBJ6Xq_HThKz1SRHRnmEKYA6z2aTQsRxPasLy/s1600/IMG_2136.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUQpYc7-G0UotkU7QoLkMl1Zxb8-H8dmbhcIi9_BoeQLtKVTiDpGwce5cEb117lQy1Q_sScG11caBIR8ybMnw1DQO_35ifHTvD0xHrwfgZBJ6Xq_HThKz1SRHRnmEKYA6z2aTQsRxPasLy/s1600/IMG_2136.JPG" /></a></div>Here is a sample of my favorite weathering technique from his website.<br />
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What we need:<br />
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Boltgun Metal. It is important to use this paint. Mithrill Silver is too bright. Metalics by Vallejo are very bad for this kind of paint job, glazes run-off it and it is very hard to stain it.<br />
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1) Vallejo Air Rust<br />
2) Vallejo Air Cam. Medium Brown<br />
3) Tamiya xf-1 Flat Black<br />
4) MiG Pigments Dust(light brown)<br />
5) Blood Red<br />
6) Wet pallet<br />
<br />
Apply Vallejo Air Rust on wet pallet and mix it with water (relation 1:5) and apply about 3 thin layers on spear (remember that previous layer must by dry). <br />
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Step III <br />
Do the same thing with Vallejo Air Cam. Medium Brown, if you still have Rust on pallet, don't afraid to mix it with Brown. Apply 3 thin layers on spear. <br />
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Step IV <br />
Apply Tamiya Black on pallet and mix it with Vallejo Brown (1:1). Paint shadows on spear , about 1-2 layers (XF-1 has strong pigment, so be careful). If you don't have MiG pigment (or home made powdered dry pastels), move to Step VII.<br />
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Step V <br />
Pigment time: Mix a little (like on picture) part of pigment with blood red and water (1:5) and apply 1 thin layer on random spear parts. <br />
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Step VI <br />
If you want to have really rusty weapons, repeat Step V (several times if you paint nurgle army).<br />
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Step VI<br />
Try a very simple thing for the end, dry brush the spear with Boltgun Metal. But remember, not aggressive hitting miniature by your brush or not shuffle. Just gently, quick moves with your brush (the bigger one, I used Army Painter Drybrush Brush).<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOjWStUPFny_2zEhh-S7Oa4q8BqcECz2q51_XbycTtp35q8ChJdUp-UBjMW0lBKqccSCsu2WHNcdamOYZNVLkUgDlbK1DPYOtOSdkBXvoJDfoGO0g5WROzsmnV1sq5DBgzpiWaKThSVnqs/s1600/painting-over-rust.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="228" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOjWStUPFny_2zEhh-S7Oa4q8BqcECz2q51_XbycTtp35q8ChJdUp-UBjMW0lBKqccSCsu2WHNcdamOYZNVLkUgDlbK1DPYOtOSdkBXvoJDfoGO0g5WROzsmnV1sq5DBgzpiWaKThSVnqs/s320/painting-over-rust.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Another great Website is this one by Tinweasel. Here he uses actual metal to make “go figure” realistic looking rust!!</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><a href="http://home.wideopenwest.com/~tinweasel/rust_tut.html"><span style="color: #ff8900;">http://home.wideopenwest.com/~tinweasel/rust_tut.html</span></a></div><br />
<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Call me crazy (or suddenly inspired) but the essential heart of this "natural" weathering technique is the Rust Mixture itself. This was a recipe I learned many, many, many years ago in chemistry class - it does involve some harmful chemicals, an ongoing chemical reaction, and possible adverse affects to skin, clothing, and any oxidixable metal. Consider yourself warned! The Mixture is as follows: </div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">• 1 part liquid bleach </div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">• 3 parts household strength white vinegar </div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">• 1 suitably-sized clean chunk of extra-fine (#0000) grade steel wool</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">I used a standard empty Vallejo dropper paint bottle with the steel wool placed inside prior to pouring the mixture of the two chemicals in. While not an intense chemical reaction, it does produce a somewhat significant amount of gas as a by-product over time. I found out the hard way about leaving the screw-top off the dropper bottle until the reaction subsided completely (roughly 2-3 days, perhaps more) as when I first opened it, I was spattered with overflowing Rust Mixture. Being made up of actual oxidized metal, the Rust Mixture has a tendency to settle - prior to using it as a paint make sure the bottle is well-shaken. Another word of warning - although I couldn't swear to it, I believe the vinegar/bleach/oxidized metal caused a slight chemical burn on my thumb during an accidental overflow. While I am by no means a chemistry major, I believe the bleach and vinegar as potential caustic agents would cease to be a problem once all their bonding reactions were completed on the steel wool. Likewise, given that vinegar is a mild acid and (I believe) bleach is a mild base, things should eventually subside once all chemical reactions between them and the steel wool have taken their course (again roughly 2-3 days, perhaps more.) While I can't say this is the ideal mixture for painting, as it takes some getting used to, I can safely say it's likely the most authentic rust mixture I've seen used on any miniature figures thus far, given that it is genuine rust in a bottle!</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
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<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Rust in Pieces <a href="http://www.paulbatchelor.com/Rust.html"><span style="color: #ff8900;">http://www.paulbatchelor.com/Rust.html</span></a></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">There are many ways in which to create rust effects in miniature.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">You can ink, paint, dry brush, use weathering powders etc, etc. At this point I would like to add about the use of corrosives and chemicals to achieve rust effects: stay away from them! Dangerous and pointless; and not even half as much fun or satisfaction as doing it the old fashioned way.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Anyway, without further ado, let’s get painting…</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Source material:</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">it’s always good to have some source material if you are trying to re-create something that exists in real life, be it lizard skin, camo or fabric. The internet is a good place for this these days. However, if you’re not up with the new fangled “electro-inter-web” then you can go to a place called the library and look in book.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8q2b2PqH8joT-4u6-Mmfvx_Zx7IC0DzQmiGY33hHaLJA4Pv9omcMdeNalw5CSw4b0WntiSyC06hPbN7I-3gLUMJzMmYarcFLc-Yc1Eu_JipNGiCLZQtzZGXxCup0Y_GJ-ZwVyUE5lJaTL/s1600/10a-250x188.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8q2b2PqH8joT-4u6-Mmfvx_Zx7IC0DzQmiGY33hHaLJA4Pv9omcMdeNalw5CSw4b0WntiSyC06hPbN7I-3gLUMJzMmYarcFLc-Yc1Eu_JipNGiCLZQtzZGXxCup0Y_GJ-ZwVyUE5lJaTL/s1600/10a-250x188.jpg" /></a></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Know your corrosion</div>Rust is scientifically called oxidation, which occurs when oxygen comes into prolonged contact with certain metals. Over time, the oxygen combines with the metal at an atomic level, forming a new compound called an oxide and weakening the bonds of the metal itself. If the base metal is iron or steel, the resulting rust is properly called iron oxide and is normally orange in color. Rusted aluminum would be called aluminum oxide, copper forms copper oxide which is greenish, and so on.<br />
<br />
The main catalyst for the rusting process is dehydrogenating oxide, but we know it better as water. Water molecules can easily penetrate the microscopic pits and cracks in any exposed metal. The hydrogen atoms present in water can combine with other elements to form acids, which will eventually cause more metal to be exposed. If sodium is present, as is the case with saltwater, corrosion will likely occur more quickly.<br />
<br />
<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">So, if you’re painting pirates and things in sea water add more rust.</div>List of colors<br />
<br />
Listed below, in the order in which you will need to paint them, is the list of colors you’ll need to paint rust onto different metals. I will be showing you the iron oxide paint scheme in this tutorial; however the same technique is applied for all the types of metal.<br />
Iron Oxide:<br />
<br />
-Dark metallic paint. (Dry brush)<br />
<br />
-Chestnut ink. (Ink wash)<br />
<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div>-Bright silver paint. (Dry brush)<br />
<br />
-Terracotta paint. (Watered down paint wash)<br />
<br />
-And a mid shade of orange. (Watered down paint wash)<br />
<br />
Aluminum Oxide:<br />
<br />
-Dark metallic paint. (Dry brush)<br />
<br />
-Mid metallic paint. (Dry brush)<br />
<br />
-Black ink. (Ink wash)<br />
<br />
-Bright silver paint. (Dry brush)<br />
<br />
-White paint. (Watered down paint wash)<br />
<br />
<br />
Copper Oxide:<br />
<br />
-Dark brass metallic paint. (Dry brush)<br />
<br />
-Mid gold metallic paint. (Dry brush)<br />
<br />
-Green ink. (Ink wash)<br />
<br />
-Turquoise paint. (Watered down paint wash)<br />
<br />
-Light green paint. (Watered down paint wash)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Painting<br />
This is a simple technique and, as stated before, just follow these same steps for each type of metal, <br />
<br />
replacing the change of color as appropriate.<br />
<br />
Working from a black undercoat you can either dry brush or simply paint on your base color. In this <br />
<br />
case a dark metallic.<br />
<br />
Once you have enough coverage allow to dry.<br />
<br />
Slap on some neat ink. No water just plain ink straight from the pot.<br />
<br />
Apply it to areas where rust would likely start and grow, such as areas where joins are and around bolt <br />
<br />
heads and hinges.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
These areas hold water more than the flat surfaces and are more prone to rust.<br />
<br />
Once completely dry we then add a second dry brush of bright silver paint. This is to just tease back <br />
<br />
the edges we may have lost while inking.<br />
<br />
<br />
Now we add terracotta as a base for our rust. Add two parts water to one part paint and apply again to <br />
<br />
the areas where the rust will be most prolific. You can stipple this colour onto flat surfaces to simulate <br />
<br />
light rust that hasn’t taken hold yet.<br />
<br />
<br />
The last step is to water down some mid-orange paint, again two parts paint to one part water.<br />
<br />
Paint this over the terracotta, allowing some of the original colour to remain visible at the edges.<br />
<br />
Allow to dry and bingo! You’re done!<br />
<br />
<br />
Paul Batchelor.<br />
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<a href="http://www.ehow.com/how_6547190_paint-rust-effects.html#ixzz1AgbwtjxU"><span style="color: #ff8900;">www.ehow.com/how_6547190_paint-rust-effects.html#ixzz1AgbwtjxU</span></a> Debbie Tolle<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
1) Apply a coat of primer designed for all surfaces and allow it dry. Drying times vary for different brands of primer, which is why you should always follow the manufacturer's instructions.<br />
<br />
2) Paint a base coat of white acrylic latex paint on the object receiving the rust effect. Sprinkle clean sand over the random areas on the object while the paint is still wet, and allow it to dry for a minimum of 12 hours. Applying sand will give the object the look of oxidation or rough areas where rust forms. This step is optional, and is not absolutely necessary if you do not want the rough texture.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUwo95PiZg4EHGVS9kNpH3pvSV36xl8kNpnN_z3Q6rAoZAXWcopRj0ooGWL8xMQKqNIcGL7FC_gmEHJGn4_tkovRRlS-qdAMjUtqsOm1HfiZHUT_0N6ZgAv08hD3sgMf6XxD-WYUCUhll_/s1600/paint-rust-effects-200X200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUwo95PiZg4EHGVS9kNpH3pvSV36xl8kNpnN_z3Q6rAoZAXWcopRj0ooGWL8xMQKqNIcGL7FC_gmEHJGn4_tkovRRlS-qdAMjUtqsOm1HfiZHUT_0N6ZgAv08hD3sgMf6XxD-WYUCUhll_/s1600/paint-rust-effects-200X200.jpg" /></a></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">3) Pick the object up and turn it over to allow excess sand to fall off of it before applying the next coat of paint.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">4) Apply dark brown paint to the object by stippling it on the surface. Stippling means to dip the brush into the paint and dab the paint on instead of brushing it on. Do not completely cover the object with the brown paint. You want to be able to see the base coat of paint and sand through the brown in random areas on the object.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">5) Wash out the paintbrush and stipple the terracotta color paint on the exposed areas of the object that were not covered with the brown paint. Allow the object to dry overnight.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">6) Use the water bottle to spray water on the entire object. Use the stipple technique to apply the gray paint over the entire surface of the object, and allow it to dry. The object will most likely need to dry overnight because of the water. The gray paint fades out the brown and terracotta paint, which gives the effect of rust beginning to form through the original metal.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">7) Spray the surface of the object with water and splatter the orange paint on random areas across the object. The orange paint should be splattered on areas where rust would naturally form. Hold a paint stick in one hand, and tap the edge of the 1/4-inch paintbrush on the edge of the paint stick. The bristles should be overhanging the edge of the paint stick. This technique will give you control over where the splatters land. Natural rust formation usually occurs along the edges, and on ridges that might collect water.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">8) Use the rag to dab the orange paint after you splatter it. Dabbing the paint will flatten the splatters and make them appear like the formation of rust.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">9) Allow the newly faux finished object to completely dry before placing it outside. Wait for 24 hours, or at least overnight.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 10pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><a href="http://www.madponies.net/verdigris.html"><span style="color: purple;">http://www.madponies.net/verdigris.html</span></a><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Verdegris</span></div><br />
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<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><a href="http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/article.jsp?categoryId=&pIndex=4&aId=6000022a&multiPageMode=true&start=5"><span style="color: #ff8900;">http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/article.jsp?categoryId=&pIndex=4&aId=6000022a&multiPageMode=true&start=5</span></a></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Painting dark bronze<br />
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><a href="http://ultrawerke.blogspot.com/2007/08/rust-painting-tutorial-with-pigments.html"><span style="color: #ff8900;">http://ultrawerke.blogspot.com/2007/08/rust-painting-tutorial-with-pigments.html</span></a></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="color: #ff8900;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK8sqrYpvLp7Qyz8y2V-RakuQwvdBqRie3_RYq4Hdh76-I5FSnS9YIuh5HmKTSOYeqIriZbpAtsKVLhbUOxc5m0P-CWhuVzNJC8NdtNmy48hlw-gPbz1QgyD1QBH_shJ64_xVr11Kb2z4S/s1600/DSCN2068.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: #ff8900;"><img border="0" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK8sqrYpvLp7Qyz8y2V-RakuQwvdBqRie3_RYq4Hdh76-I5FSnS9YIuh5HmKTSOYeqIriZbpAtsKVLhbUOxc5m0P-CWhuVzNJC8NdtNmy48hlw-gPbz1QgyD1QBH_shJ64_xVr11Kb2z4S/s1600/DSCN2068.JPG" /></span></a></div>Another great tutorial.<br />
<br />
If you have any ideas on painting rust or verdigris on models that I haven't covered here, or simply a different take on an idea, please let me know so I can add it to the tutorial. <br />
I hope that you can get some use from this, <br />
Cheers, <br />
Bard</div>Black Bardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08112485219629037405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4511312244734260668.post-39975293546194349322010-11-30T20:28:00.000-08:002010-11-30T20:28:25.815-08:00Tutorial - Empire Pistoliers + Army Painter by: Pr3dator<a href="http://admachina.wordpress.com/2010/11/28/how-i-paint-my-empire-figures/">How I paint my Empire figures</a>. By: Pr3dator @ <a href="http://admachina.wordpress.com/">http://admachina.wordpress.com/</a><br />
I was asked if I could make a tutorial of how I use Army Painter on my figures. Here it is:<br />
<div style="color: #ff470f;"><em>(Press the pictures to watch ‘em in bigger size!)</em></div><a href="http://www.thomas-nielsen.com/wwii/tut001.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-23" height="257" src="http://www.thomas-nielsen.com/wwii/tut001.jpg" title="Tutorial 1" width="450" /></a><br />
<a name='more'></a><em>First of I give the figures a undercoat. On the horse I used GW’s Foundation, Calthan Brown, and the Pistolier I just sprayed black.</em><br />
<a href="http://www.thomas-nielsen.com/wwii/tut002.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-23" height="257" src="http://www.thomas-nielsen.com/wwii/tut002.jpg" title="Tutorial 2" width="450" /></a><br />
<em>Now I paint all the colors that works well with a Army Painter wash, in my color scheme it is mainly brown, skin tones and warm grey, but it would also work well together with green and red colors. Notice that only one foot on the horse has been painted black, I will make the other one’s white as many horses have this together with the white marking on their muzzles.</em><br />
<a href="http://www.thomas-nielsen.com/wwii/tut003.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-23" height="257" src="http://www.thomas-nielsen.com/wwii/tut003.jpg" title="Tutorial 3" width="450" /></a><br />
<em>With a brush I wash the colored areas with Army Painter. Make sure that there is the right amount of varnish, too much varnish, in the face for example and it will look like a very heavy sun tan, too little and the effect won’t show. Work fast as it gets quit sticky after a while.</em><br />
<a href="http://www.thomas-nielsen.com/wwii/tut004.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-23" height="257" src="http://www.thomas-nielsen.com/wwii/tut004.jpg" title="Tutorial 4" width="450" /></a><br />
<em>The day after it looks like this.</em><br />
<a href="http://www.thomas-nielsen.com/wwii/tut005.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-23" height="257" src="http://www.thomas-nielsen.com/wwii/tut005.jpg" title="Tutorial 5" width="450" /></a><br />
<em>Now it is time for armor and weapons. I paint iron with GW’s Chainmail and Brass stuff with GW’s Dwarf Bronze. Then I give it a wash with GW’s Badab Black. I don’t think that the GW Washes works very well on anything else than on metal colors – but here they are quit outstanding. Not shown on this picture, but after the wash has dried I highlight with GW’s Mithril Silver and Shining Gold.</em><br />
<a href="http://www.thomas-nielsen.com/wwii/tut006.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-23" height="257" src="http://www.thomas-nielsen.com/wwii/tut006.jpg" title="Tutorial 6" width="450" /></a><br />
<em>If all colors on your figures are someones that work together with Army Painter, then there’s nothing left than to give it a Dull Coat. But I’m using Light Blue on some places, so there is nothing to do but to paint it the ordinary way. I paint the blue in three stages. This is Vallejo’s 70841 Andrea Blue.</em><br />
<a href="http://www.thomas-nielsen.com/wwii/tut007.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-23" height="257" src="http://www.thomas-nielsen.com/wwii/tut007.jpg" title="Tutorial 7" width="450" /></a><br />
<em>Next step… a little bit ligther… Vallejo’s 70844 Deep Sky Blue.</em><br />
<a href="http://www.thomas-nielsen.com/wwii/tut008.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-23" height="257" src="http://www.thomas-nielsen.com/wwii/tut008.jpg" title="Tutorial 8" width="450" /></a><br />
<em>And the last one is 70961 Sky Blue. If I didn’t have to paint an entire army with Light Blue on every single figure I would never buy three shades of Blue. I would rather just make the blue lighter by mixing with white…</em><br />
<a href="http://www.thomas-nielsen.com/wwii/tut009.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-23" height="274" src="http://www.thomas-nielsen.com/wwii/tut009.jpg" title="Tutorial 9" width="450" /></a><br />
<a href="http://www.thomas-nielsen.com/wwii/tut010.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-23" height="274" src="http://www.thomas-nielsen.com/wwii/tut010.jpg" title="Tutorial 10" width="450" /></a><br />
<em>After fixing all the last small details I varnish it all with a Dull Cote. Don’t forget to do this… It looks nice with the Army Painter varnish, but after adding a truly matt varnish it looks much better. By the way… The feather and the horse’s hoofs are painted white and then giving it a wash of thinned Army Painter (50% thinner – 50% Army Painter).</em>Black Bardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08112485219629037405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4511312244734260668.post-81551107226414503812010-11-30T20:16:00.000-08:002010-11-30T20:16:23.345-08:00Tutorial - Skaven Mortar by Squeek<h3 class="post-title entry-title">Skaven Poisoned Wind Mortar Step-by-Step painting guide by S<a href="http://chatteringhorde.blogspot.com/">queek Vermintide</a> (@ The chattering horde)</h3><div class="post-header"></div><div><div style="margin: 0px;"><div style="margin: 0px;"><br />
</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin: 0px;"><br />
</div><div style="margin: 0px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_BRG74VJTRBg/TOnm2VbsBRI/AAAAAAAAECI/fFmBKQFfmMk/s1600/DSC08883.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_BRG74VJTRBg/TOnm2VbsBRI/AAAAAAAAECI/fFmBKQFfmMk/s200/DSC08883.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>The Poisoned Wind Mortar is another of those crazy Clan Skryre inventions that any self-respecting Warlord just has to love...</div><div style="margin: 0px;"><br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
</div><div style="margin: 0px;">Firstly, it seems like it must be almost as lethal to the team using it (and their comrades) as the enemy themselves. Its also easy to mentally picture the two crew nervously loading and firing this thing from the relative safety of (behind) a large unit, all the while worrying about a misfire, a dropped mortar shell or the whole mortar exploding! (I also like to imagine the accompanying Clan Rat unit waiting expectantly to see mortar shells flying over their heads towards the rapidly approaching enemy, only to turn around to find the two operators arguing heatedly about who gets to fire and who gets to load!)</div><div style="margin: 0px;"><br />
</div><div style="margin: 0px;">Having posted my <a href="http://chatteringhorde.blogspot.com/2010/11/skaven-warpfire-thrower-step-by-step.html">Warpfire Thrower guide</a>, I noted that it wouldn't be difficult to quickly throw up a similar guide for the Poisoned Wind Mortar as many of the colours and steps used were the same. While many of the steps and colours below are the same, I still hope that this will prove useful! (More pics below the guide.)</div><div style="margin: 0px;"><br />
</div><div style="margin: 0px;"><div style="margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><b>1. Assembly.</b></span></div></div></div><div><ul><li>File down or carefully cut away any flash from the model.</li>
<li>Glue to base.</li>
</ul></div><div><div style="margin: 0px;"><div style="margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><b>2. 1st Basing.</b></span></div></div></div><div><ul><li>Paint watered-down PVA glue to the base.</li>
<li>Dip base into modelling sand</li>
<li>Shake away excess and leave to dry</li>
</ul></div><div><div style="margin: 0px;"><div style="margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><b>3. Undercoat.</b></span></div></div></div><div><ul><li>Undercoat whole model Chaos Black (I use GW Spray paint.)</li>
</ul><div><div style="margin: 0px;"><div style="margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><b>4. Drybrush base.</b></span></div></div></div><div><ul><li>Calthan Brown.</li>
<li>Snakebite Leather</li>
</ul></div><div><div style="margin: 0px;"><div style="margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><b>5. Basecoat.</b></span></div></div></div></div><div><div style="margin: 0px;"><div style="margin: 0px;">Apply base colours to all parts of the model.</div></div></div><div><ul><li>Boltgun Metal: Metal bands and pipes on the mortar and backpack containing the poisoned wind globe, rim/ band on support wheel, symbol on mortar.</li>
<li>Red Gore: Robes.</li>
<li>Tallarn Flesh: Skin, tail etc.</li>
<li>Dwarf Bronze: Mortar, mortar valve (by operator's hand), gas mask "nose".</li>
<li>Dark Angels Green: Pipes, Poisoned Wind mortar globes, shard of warpstone by front operator's back foot, gas mask eyes.</li>
<li>Codex Grey: Weapon team hoods and gas masks.</li>
<li>Bestial Brown or Calthan Brown: backpack containing poisoned wind globe.</li>
<li>Snakebite Leather: Leather shoulder straps on backpack, weapon team gloves, belts.</li>
</ul></div><div><div style="margin: 0px;"><div style="margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><b>6. Layers.</b></span></div></div></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_BRG74VJTRBg/TPJcEMygAMI/AAAAAAAAEHw/igjjDzLNV2o/s1600/DSC08883.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_BRG74VJTRBg/TPJcEMygAMI/AAAAAAAAEHw/igjjDzLNV2o/s1600/DSC08883.JPG" /></a></div><ul><li>Robes: Red Gore/ Blood Red (50/50 Mix), then Red Gore/ Blood Red (25/75 mix) and finally Blood Red.</li>
<li>Mortar Pipes: Snot Green/ Dark Angels Green 50/50 mix, then Snot Green.</li>
<li>Warpstone Shard: Snot Green/ Dark Angels Green 50/50 mix.</li>
<li>Poisoned Wind Globes: Stripe with lines of Snot Green, then a few more lines of Snot Green/ Skull White (75/ 25)</li>
<li>Gas mask eyes: Snot green, then Snot Green/ Skull White mix (50/50). Finally add a tiny spot of white a the top of each eye.</li>
</ul><div style="margin: 0px;"><div style="margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><b>7. Washes.</b></span></div></div></div><div><ul><li>Skin, Tail/ Ears, feet: Ogryn Flesh.</li>
<li>Robes/ Gas mask hoods: Devlan Mud.</li>
<li>Poison Wind Mortar: Devlan Mud</li>
<li>Warpstone shard: Thrakka Green</li>
</ul><div style="margin: 0px;"><div style="margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><b>8. Drybrushing.</b></span></div></div><ul><li>Mortar (Bronze parts): Light drybrushing of Dwarf Bronze on edges.</li>
<li>Mortar (Boltgun Metal parts): Light drybrushing of Chainmail on edges.</li>
</ul><div style="margin: 0px;"><div style="margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><b>9. Highlights.</b></span></div></div></div><div><ul><li>Edges of any parts done in Boltgun Metal: Boltgun Metal OR Chainmail.</li>
<li>Edge of mortar barrel: Chainmail OR Dwarf Bronze as appropriate.</li>
<li>Skin/ Tail/ Ears: Tallarn Flesh/ Dwarf Flesh (50/50 mix)</li>
</ul></div><div><div style="margin: 0px;"><div style="margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><b>10. Verdigris (Optional)</b></span></div></div><div style="margin: 0px;"><div style="margin: 0px;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_BRG74VJTRBg/TPJcvRk4jAI/AAAAAAAAEH4/GE-eUdSJO7g/s1600/DSC08884.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_BRG74VJTRBg/TPJcvRk4jAI/AAAAAAAAEH4/GE-eUdSJO7g/s1600/DSC08884.JPG" /></a></div>This is the light blue patina that you see on old statues or layers of bronze in museums or exposed to the elements. Having this will add an additional sense of age to any bronze parts. Please note, if you haven't done this before, experiment first, as if you get it wrong this is the last stage of the model, so it may be difficult to correct...<br />
<br />
</div></div><ul style="font-weight: normal;"><li>Heavily water down GW Ice Blue. You'll have to experiment to find the right consistency, but I would say 1 part paint to between 7 and 10 parts water. It should be watery enough that you can wipe away WITHOUT leaving a stain. (Very important so you can correct mistakes if necessary!)</li>
<li>Carefully paint onto any <i>bronze</i> parts where Verdigris would naturally appear so that it gathers. See "bluish" areas on photos below on the mortar. (recessed areas between bronze parts.)</li>
<li>Quickly take a tissue, fold to a point, and dab away any excess, so it is left gathered around the parts mentioned above.</li>
<li>Leave remainder to dry. (Be patient!)</li>
<li>HINT: Only add Verdigris to one area at a time so you have time to wick or dab away excess before it dries. Don't add to ALL bronze parts on the whole model at the same time! E.g. Do the Bronze top of the mortar, then wipe away. Then do another bit, then wipe away. Then do the... you get the picture!</li>
</ul><div style="margin: 0px;"><div style="margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><b>11. Varnishing (Optional)</b></span></div></div></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_BRG74VJTRBg/TPJcf-wVFDI/AAAAAAAAEH0/9XWSrriSHe4/s1600/DSC08884.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_BRG74VJTRBg/TPJcf-wVFDI/AAAAAAAAEH0/9XWSrriSHe4/s1600/DSC08884.JPG" /></a></div>I wanted to add a "Glassy" effect to the Poisoned Wind globes to make them stand out (I don't use varnish anywhere else in my army) and because I wasn't happy with the "Gas" effect on the globes themselves. In the end, I think that this very simple use of varnish actually works well and makes the globes really stand out!<br />
<br />
<ul><li>Poisoned Wind Globes: GW 'ardcoat was evenly applied.</li>
<li>Gas mask eyes: GW 'ardcoat was added to each eye.</li>
</ul><div><div><div style="margin: 0px;"><div style="margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: large;"><b>12. Final Basing</b></span></div></div></div><div><ul><li>Dab on a couple of spots of PVA glue.</li>
<li>Dip in flock.</li>
<li>Shake away excess and leave to dry.</li>
</ul></div></div><div style="margin: 0px;"><div style="margin: 0px;">Done!</div></div><div style="margin: 0px;"><div style="margin: 0px;"><br />
</div></div><div style="margin: 0px;"><div style="margin: 0px;">Here's the finished Poisoned Wind Mortar, ready to dissolve and gas the enemy!</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_BRG74VJTRBg/TOnm3JUUJBI/AAAAAAAAECM/7Kkzz6bXeWc/s1600/DSC08884.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_BRG74VJTRBg/TOnm3JUUJBI/AAAAAAAAECM/7Kkzz6bXeWc/s400/DSC08884.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_BRG74VJTRBg/TOnm4rtbWRI/AAAAAAAAECQ/f8zQi3nEHsI/s1600/DSC08885.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_BRG74VJTRBg/TOnm4rtbWRI/AAAAAAAAECQ/f8zQi3nEHsI/s400/DSC08885.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_BRG74VJTRBg/TOnm5Wc-HyI/AAAAAAAAECU/OSM8tfXk1hY/s1600/DSC08886.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_BRG74VJTRBg/TOnm5Wc-HyI/AAAAAAAAECU/OSM8tfXk1hY/s400/DSC08886.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXXoUisZ-sxQ1pQ_jgSe6upnsC6r8-iZCk9mDqkTWfjcviJF6NEZtzpwJO6oIOjRu_Ll3NmE3MRQIO_8hTrpFN4gCaHETp5ak9ya1ZZc7LpyF1nIiVDEfd85u564FQLnAO1GzX0AmIEG8/s1600/DSC08887.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXXoUisZ-sxQ1pQ_jgSe6upnsC6r8-iZCk9mDqkTWfjcviJF6NEZtzpwJO6oIOjRu_Ll3NmE3MRQIO_8hTrpFN4gCaHETp5ak9ya1ZZc7LpyF1nIiVDEfd85u564FQLnAO1GzX0AmIEG8/s400/DSC08887.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div style="margin: 0px;">Hope you find this useful!</div><div style="margin: 0px;"><br />
</div><div style="margin: 0px;">*Squeek*</div></div></div>Black Bardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08112485219629037405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4511312244734260668.post-40937816280685662212010-11-26T19:05:00.000-08:002010-11-30T20:56:45.970-08:00Tutorial Glue Applicator by:NesbetNesbet at: <a href="http://nesbetminiatures.blogspot.com/">http://nesbetminiatures.blogspot.com/</a><br />
Hi again. This time I've decided not to post "another" WIP. I was the kind of hobbyst who worked endlessly until the project was finished before starting another. Now I realized that I've got:<br />
<a name='more'></a>- a bunch of unfinished marauders (waiting for green and grey stuff to arrive to scultp some things)<br />
- partly assembled 15-man Chaos Chosen unit (waiting... to have time?)<br />
- 2 unfinished Chaos Chariots (that I haven't finished because... the last time I tried, my room was 5ºC and the paint took forever to dry, then I went to sleep)<br />
- a 15-man Chaos Warriors unit (unfinished, because of the standard icon that I haven't painted, yet)<br />
- another 15-man Chaos Warriors unit (finished, but using old paint scheme, now waiting to repaint the cloaks)<br />
<br />
This is unacceptable. Or was.<br />
At least, so I considered until the beginning of this year xD<br />
Well, too much depressing blah blah. Let me show you how to make a quick glue applicator:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4129/5177043416_07ee306bcb_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4129/5177043416_07ee306bcb_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
To make one of this useful -and barely known- tool you will need:<br />
- seweing needle (a big one will be better)<br />
- pliers<br />
- handle (optional, but useful)<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4147/5177044798_072f9dd903_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4147/5177044798_072f9dd903_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
Well, all you need is to cut the first third of the needle head with your pliers, to achieve something like this:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4086/5177045154_58f2ca565f_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4086/5177045154_58f2ca565f_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
As you can imagine, the idea is to catch very small amounts of glue there, right in that "U" in the top of the needle. If you have a dead pen, a wood stick, or any other thing that would work as handle, go ahead!<br />
I used this handle, wich belonged to a chisel I used when I was 12 years old xD<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4145/5177046318_0a42dc78de_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4145/5177046318_0a42dc78de_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<br />
With this tool, you'll be able to use your glue in those areas where you need very small amounts. There are a lot of bits that shouldn't be glued with too much glue (as you should know, not always more glue it's the best solution when gluing).<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4127/5177047662_4d36578811_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4127/5177047662_4d36578811_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4106/5176446295_650d00cb8d_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4106/5176446295_650d00cb8d_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4147/5176447837_2d219ff113_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4147/5176447837_2d219ff113_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
That's it! The repaired model, the champion of the Chaos Warriors unit I told before, that were waiting for repainted cloaks. Now, with his additional sword in place, as well as his spiked knee.<br />
Until next time, hopefully, with something finished!Black Bardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08112485219629037405noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4511312244734260668.post-24296249939673983222010-11-14T09:30:00.000-08:002010-11-14T09:30:59.866-08:00Skaven Grey Seer Tutorial by:Squeek<h3 class="post-title entry-title">By Squeek Vermintide @ <a href="http://chatteringhorde.blogspot.com/">http://chatteringhorde.blogspot.com/</a></h3><h3 class="post-title entry-title">Grey Seer Stage-by-Stage Painting Guide </h3><div class="post-header"><div class="post-header-line-1"></div></div><div class="post-body entry-content"><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_BRG74VJTRBg/TNdr8ZaeP_I/AAAAAAAAEBM/DzsaMRyAKlE/s800/DSC08859.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_BRG74VJTRBg/TNdr8ZaeP_I/AAAAAAAAEBM/DzsaMRyAKlE/s800/DSC08859.JPG" /></a></div>Having <a href="http://chatteringhorde.blogspot.com/2010/11/skaven-grey-seer-gallery.html"><span style="color: #77aaff;">completed my first Grey Seer</span></a>, I posted a few pictures, but wanted to put up a stage-by-stage guide that I hope other new Skaven players will find useful. Unfortunately I don't have pictures of all the stages (one example being after layers but before washes...) but I think you'll get the general idea!<br />
<br />
So here we go...<br />
<a name='more'></a> (scroll down for finished pics at the end...)<br />
<br />
<div><div style="margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>1. Assembly.</b></span></div></div><div><ul><li>File down or carefully cut away any flash from the model. </li>
<li>Glue to base. </li>
</ul></div><div><div style="margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>2. 1st Basing.</b></span></div></div><div><ul><li>Paint watered-down PVA glue to the base. </li>
<li>Dip base into modelling sand </li>
<li>Shake away excess and leave to dry </li>
</ul></div><div><div style="margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>3. Undercoat.</b></span></div></div><div><ul><li>Undercoat whole model Chaos Black (I use GW Spray paint.) </li>
</ul>NOTE: I was given this Grey Seer model by a gaming buddy, and it came without the original symbol on the staff, so I added the staff head from my bitz box...<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_BRG74VJTRBg/TNdFAg14p5I/AAAAAAAAD94/b0qnCX16bJ8/s1600/DSC08831.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_BRG74VJTRBg/TNdFAg14p5I/AAAAAAAAD94/b0qnCX16bJ8/s320/DSC08831.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div><br />
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</b></span></div><div style="margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>4. Drybrush base.</b></span></div></div><div><ul><li>Calthan Brown. </li>
<li>Snakebite Leather </li>
</ul></div><div><div style="margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>5. Basecoat.</b></span></div></div></div><div><div style="margin: 0px;">Apply base colours to all parts of the model.</div></div><br />
<br />
<div><ul><li>Boltgun Metal: Sword, helmet, base of staff. </li>
<li>Tallarn Flesh: Hands, tail, feet. </li>
<li>Dwarf Bronze: Staff symbol, guard on sword, talisman on chain, and chain. </li>
<li>Bleached Bone: Skull on staff, horns on helmet, nails on hands/ feet, scrolls. </li>
<li>Dark Angels Green: Sigil on sword, warpstone studs on robes. </li>
<li>Fortress Grey: Fur. </li>
<li>Bestial Brown: Staff, belt. </li>
<li>Snakebite Leather: Leather pouch on belt, leather pouch on staff. </li>
<li>Chainmail: Bolts on staff symbol. </li>
</ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_BRG74VJTRBg/TNdaf4YOfPI/AAAAAAAAEBE/P5DhuelaQlk/s1600/DSC08836.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_BRG74VJTRBg/TNdaf4YOfPI/AAAAAAAAEBE/P5DhuelaQlk/s400/DSC08836.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div><br />
</div></div><div><div style="margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>6. Layers. (Before washes)</b></span></div></div><div><ul><li>Robes: Codex Grey/ Fortress Grey(50/50 Mix), then Codex Grey Fortress Grey (25/75 mix) and finally Fortress Grey with some Skull White (75/15 mix). </li>
<li>Leather/ Leather Pouches: Snakehide Leather/ Skull White (50/50 mix) </li>
<li>Skulls: Skull White over Bleached Bone. </li>
</ul><div style="margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>7. Washes.</b></span></div></div><div><ul><li>Skin, Tail/ Ears: Ogryn Flesh. </li>
<li>Everything else(!): Devlan Mud. </li>
</ul><div style="margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>8. Highlights. (After washes)</b></span></div></div><div><ul><li>Armour/ weapon edges (e.g. Helmet): Chainmail. </li>
<li>Nails on staff symbol: Mithril Silver. </li>
<li>Skull: Bleached Bone/ Skull White (50/50 mix) </li>
<li>Skin/ Tail/ Ears: Tallarn Flesh/ Dwarf Flesh (50/50 mix) </li>
<li>Warpstone: Snot Green/ Skull White (75/25 mix) then building up...Snot Green/ Skull White (50/50 mix), Snot Green/ Skull White (25/75) </li>
<li>Skin (Hands, Feet etc.): Dwarf Flesh/ Tallarn Flesh (50/50 mix) and/ or Dwarf Flesh/ Elf Flesh (50/50 mix) </li>
</ul></div><div><div style="margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>7. Drybrushing.</b></span></div><div style="margin: 0px;"></div><ul><li><span class="Apple-style-span">Staff symbol: Dwarf Bronze. </span> </li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;">Robes: Fortress Grey. </span></i></span></b></span> </li>
<li><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal;">Staff: Bestial Brown/ Skull White (75/25 mix)</span></i></span></b></span> </li>
</ul><div style="margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>8. Final Basing</b></span></div><div style="margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><b></b></span>In this case, I decided not to add anything to the base other than the colours added previously, but if you wanted to...</div><div style="margin: 0px;"></div><ul><li>Dab on a couple of spots of PVA glue. </li>
<li>Dip in flock. </li>
<li>Shake away excess and leave to dry. </li>
</ul></div><div><div style="margin: 0px;">Done!</div><div style="margin: 0px;"><br />
</div><div style="margin: 0px;">...or <i>not QUITE</i> done, because following advice and comments on other models, I decided to have a go at adding some verdigris to the Dwarf Bronze staff symbol. I had tried this before and so followed the same method.</div><div style="margin: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-large;"><b>9. Verdigris Wash.</b></span></div><div style="margin: 0px;"></div><ul><li>Heavily water down ICE BLUE (10 parts water to 1 part Ice Blue.) You'll need to experiment to find the right balance of water/ paint... </li>
<li>Paint or dab onto the bronze symbol, so wash gathers in recesses or raised areas. Feel free to apply quite heavily, but be careful it doesn't drip down the staff. </li>
<li>Using a rolled up piece of tissue paper (so it has a point) carefully dab or drain away wash from flat surfaces, leaving the wash gathered around raised areas or in recesses. </li>
</ul>NOTE: Don't<i> totally</i> drain away from smooth surfaces...leave a thin film of wash if you can so it dulls down the overall metallic effect.<br />
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</div><div style="margin: 0px;">The finished product. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_BRG74VJTRBg/TNdGM3CP1iI/AAAAAAAAD_A/lTKXQD59ZUI/s1600/DSC08846.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_BRG74VJTRBg/TNdGM3CP1iI/AAAAAAAAD_A/lTKXQD59ZUI/s400/DSC08846.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_BRG74VJTRBg/TNdGNu1E0JI/AAAAAAAAD_E/Sr4vWnT4YG8/s1600/DSC08853.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_BRG74VJTRBg/TNdGNu1E0JI/AAAAAAAAD_E/Sr4vWnT4YG8/s400/DSC08853.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br />
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</div></div></div>Black Bardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08112485219629037405noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4511312244734260668.post-7826007324191496202010-11-11T19:27:00.000-08:002010-11-11T19:27:13.647-08:00Greenstuff Flagstone Tutorial by: Kuffeh<em>This tutorial is for the making of flagstone style bases by using a green stuff stamp. This is a simple, but can be a slightly lengthy method of doing this. However, once the stamp(s) are made the ability to make bases is quite swift. You just follow the last two or three steps. </em>A tutorial by : <a href="http://the-tradingpost.blogspot.com/">Kuffeh</a><br />
<a name='more'></a>Stage 1<br />
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The first stage is to mix up enough green stuff to cover a base. You make to make sure it is the right height and covers the base well. And leave to cure for about 10-20 minutes<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTOOQuHS0qAIIkZ1BynvzHN9yRh4DWIrXmri14P6L3zM39kaozcrqLRXZ3NN8Uarj6XzmrkbXQi66Qq1rLPkQe52Yj7z7ih_MXQLe9xWkBh21d1MlNosb3RthpibIBP3aEmpQGQVT9Tc4/s1600-h/base_3.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTOOQuHS0qAIIkZ1BynvzHN9yRh4DWIrXmri14P6L3zM39kaozcrqLRXZ3NN8Uarj6XzmrkbXQi66Qq1rLPkQe52Yj7z7ih_MXQLe9xWkBh21d1MlNosb3RthpibIBP3aEmpQGQVT9Tc4/s320/base_3.jpg" /></a><br />
<b>Stage 2</b><br />
This stage we mark on the design you want. At this point you don't want to drag the green stuff too much, it is possible that you will cause it to stretch and will warp your design. Once you are happy leave it to dry over night.<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijtuxGrw9Fd7VHX7HRKOI6TTEPHkok2asu1UDvFKnuSEMcsdF_k9pUb1vp0Dpu7-REbI3k8scXXUojfDwl-89V40qoVlG9ulBx1ENEpVg9H1GlfYdPivGYPGw3QtwEuwLMtVbDjMxqmXA/s1600-h/base_4.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijtuxGrw9Fd7VHX7HRKOI6TTEPHkok2asu1UDvFKnuSEMcsdF_k9pUb1vp0Dpu7-REbI3k8scXXUojfDwl-89V40qoVlG9ulBx1ENEpVg9H1GlfYdPivGYPGw3QtwEuwLMtVbDjMxqmXA/s320/base_4.jpg" /></a><br />
<b>Stage 3</b><br />
This is where the etching begins. Use a tool (I used a couple of my sculpting tools) to deepen the markings you made previously. They don't actually have to be that deep, just enough that the next stage will be effective.<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVPzZrwZ5vdi1QpygA9yTYU-x9o5YREhwP_BHiw4f7J_uf_saXHF-01XMhD-FCyWioaoPleTYWxUb5AXqVA1uu9ltEs27Y1XJwK5I50NJjw64uDydyYLDxx9w4qKZsp4R8JTx5Jafpsb4/s1600-h/base_11.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVPzZrwZ5vdi1QpygA9yTYU-x9o5YREhwP_BHiw4f7J_uf_saXHF-01XMhD-FCyWioaoPleTYWxUb5AXqVA1uu9ltEs27Y1XJwK5I50NJjw64uDydyYLDxx9w4qKZsp4R8JTx5Jafpsb4/s320/base_11.jpg" /></a><br />
<b>Stage 4</b><br />
Once you have etched in your design to the base, you then need to use something to make sure the mold will come free with minimal fuss. I used the below, Vaseline. Spread it over your base, making sure you get it into the gaps you have made.<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNzdfrsBVopFIEHCu8eCxldDkqTSgQhkF7ON3NvRJfUHNHc6er0OrFFqtEWjzszXXSzuX0UJsgXnu72eqgK0moM8aAFjJdcaVRGPo5YR2N8SCrwzFJE9iRHPUeOq3_RqsvgJ6oQup1oIE/s1600-h/base_12.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNzdfrsBVopFIEHCu8eCxldDkqTSgQhkF7ON3NvRJfUHNHc6er0OrFFqtEWjzszXXSzuX0UJsgXnu72eqgK0moM8aAFjJdcaVRGPo5YR2N8SCrwzFJE9iRHPUeOq3_RqsvgJ6oQup1oIE/s320/base_12.jpg" /></a><br />
<b>Stage 5</b><br />
Now, put another ball of green stuff onto your newly greased base. Push down to make sure it goes into the gaps, which is the important part. Push this down firmly, and leave to dry for about 10-15 minutes. I found it handy to make sure there is an edge on the stamp, it makes it easier to line it up in the following sections.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIpqOb-qx7a3Cm3uNsJuf9t8z3ePgktVU5GreliU5mXgnENvZa4YPuYOyVuvrrJK99MILX1qnyab9LgBQSVgqn-H-c2T8mxpMsoLPaZ9LjqL6ZoHVo-I4F5VGyt9J9ajuEIcO_b29ubI4/s1600-h/base_1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIpqOb-qx7a3Cm3uNsJuf9t8z3ePgktVU5GreliU5mXgnENvZa4YPuYOyVuvrrJK99MILX1qnyab9LgBQSVgqn-H-c2T8mxpMsoLPaZ9LjqL6ZoHVo-I4F5VGyt9J9ajuEIcO_b29ubI4/s320/base_1.jpg" /></a><br />
Once you remove the stamp, this is what you should have (but with your own design). Then leave to dry over night.<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5qm6W82RwxCcK1dQRPyT2OGq7ig0-waXs-URrFk-fhCyES16PJsh5dW_oM0d9waaGXj0d8fjJCkfpaoQr0bpjVzyANrRMB2fHm8gSuT7hc6ppb8kmd0wBLa2VAtbChoMMlRA98hxrNOQ/s1600-h/base_6.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5qm6W82RwxCcK1dQRPyT2OGq7ig0-waXs-URrFk-fhCyES16PJsh5dW_oM0d9waaGXj0d8fjJCkfpaoQr0bpjVzyANrRMB2fHm8gSuT7hc6ppb8kmd0wBLa2VAtbChoMMlRA98hxrNOQ/s320/base_6.jpg" /></a><br />
<b>Stage 6</b><br />
This stage is where once you've made the stamp you can just repeat to make multiple bases. I used milliput myself, but you can used green stuff just as well. Make a small amount of your material up and apply it to the base, much like the first step.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2k03IXUcjTkaRjCfdSjCwsvOlx96gA-YPRvgFK9FRIve0Aw6bgMuNil6KOpnYMIKqMKQxAoINRbPnKV3hdb9lOanjaZq2sQdj1n6v1s2vviPzx-rPIQXwDhKL8IlMivYjTN02JIjUet8/s1600-h/base_5.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2k03IXUcjTkaRjCfdSjCwsvOlx96gA-YPRvgFK9FRIve0Aw6bgMuNil6KOpnYMIKqMKQxAoINRbPnKV3hdb9lOanjaZq2sQdj1n6v1s2vviPzx-rPIQXwDhKL8IlMivYjTN02JIjUet8/s320/base_5.jpg" /></a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNz3JsAdcPym-fcUqZJzW8qUJVflzglXhO_nCjgfBAQ85z2qK7Jmy5vo5o7z-Lko3LvgMqOq0lO32vnYffc5aO6vjPVtf4-iyQsCEMOa32K7cY-8fA2Mfy-692_a_Wt-g0p6Wz-PwH-w8/s1600-h/base_9.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNz3JsAdcPym-fcUqZJzW8qUJVflzglXhO_nCjgfBAQ85z2qK7Jmy5vo5o7z-Lko3LvgMqOq0lO32vnYffc5aO6vjPVtf4-iyQsCEMOa32K7cY-8fA2Mfy-692_a_Wt-g0p6Wz-PwH-w8/s320/base_9.jpg" /></a><br />
<b>Stage 7</b><br />
Take your stamp and push into the milliput firmly (first picture). Leave this for about 30 seconds or so, then carefully remove. Be careful not to drag or pull the stamp too much, this might cause the gaps it leaves to warp. (second picture) Then leave to dry over night. Once dry it will be available to paint.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Zg1FbBQ-yGGvlMej9k-qTvnr_vWWmUKKRcpe2_TfoVhusnZrgWyiNNiwc8-X_JCfJ69FXaso0ZzpG2f6QqrYQ3WXtvFS5QaKPp5ARaXyxFaf3WKnQ5aPqdQS3sa6vr80rwUH9gPG4OA/s1600-h/base_8.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Zg1FbBQ-yGGvlMej9k-qTvnr_vWWmUKKRcpe2_TfoVhusnZrgWyiNNiwc8-X_JCfJ69FXaso0ZzpG2f6QqrYQ3WXtvFS5QaKPp5ARaXyxFaf3WKnQ5aPqdQS3sa6vr80rwUH9gPG4OA/s320/base_8.jpg" /></a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7j8G14NzWv20J4u_esN5_CHKCLK2ai8F1KYhsz3b0aWKpnPYC08C0vcXFNo4gzfEUXDkiC40ASDlZ0_HbMQYa2vSIby3FdNvhB9N6IB1W-xaJU0IwQfAe1QNR-5KlkAtNeRXCiS3FEN0/s1600-h/base_13.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7j8G14NzWv20J4u_esN5_CHKCLK2ai8F1KYhsz3b0aWKpnPYC08C0vcXFNo4gzfEUXDkiC40ASDlZ0_HbMQYa2vSIby3FdNvhB9N6IB1W-xaJU0IwQfAe1QNR-5KlkAtNeRXCiS3FEN0/s320/base_13.jpg" /></a></div><br />
In the end the bases should turn out something like this:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQa036nj4sH2c7k-7JYW_auN0upFOydj73hU0W-fUt_o6SkjGC4kEFAUiwuvJ5CE4L7_fT34Ux13Zh5G_EHRIWd1YMhHxfq96GcXcMovJjBbmxAjU9Ld9OEX9_nYabLr8gD9tmZ7kBvc0/s1600-h/base_7.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQa036nj4sH2c7k-7JYW_auN0upFOydj73hU0W-fUt_o6SkjGC4kEFAUiwuvJ5CE4L7_fT34Ux13Zh5G_EHRIWd1YMhHxfq96GcXcMovJjBbmxAjU9Ld9OEX9_nYabLr8gD9tmZ7kBvc0/s320/base_7.jpg" /></a></div>Black Bardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08112485219629037405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4511312244734260668.post-3383698647243753702010-11-10T09:58:00.000-08:002010-11-11T09:10:37.471-08:00Bone Armour Tutorial by:Elazar The Glorified<div class="post hentry"><div class="post-title entry-title">A tutorial by <a href="http://elazartheglorified.blogspot.com/">Elazar the Glorified</a> <br />
How To Paint A Devotee - Bone Armour Tutorial <br />
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</div><div class="post-header-line-1"></div>I was asked on Warseer to do a step-by-step of how I paint the bone coloured armour on my Warriors of Chaos. I wasn't going to post it on here but then I thought it could be quite handy for others, it doesn't have to be for WoC. With the multitude of 40k painters out there (I think most of my blog followers are 40k gamers first and foremost) it might be of use. Maybe for a darker, grittier Deathwing etc. I originally intended the colour scheme for Chaos Space Marines way back when and still think it'd look awesome on them. <br />
<div class="post-body entry-content"><a name='more'></a><br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/1282/dsc01129g.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/1282/dsc01129g.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 411px; width: 300px;" /></a></div>Step 1: Undercoat in Khemri Brown. Mine is very watered down so it takes 2 coats but gives a nice smooth finish.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/7350/dsc01131n.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/7350/dsc01131n.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 425px; width: 300px;" /></a></div>Step 2: A drybrush of Bleached Bone. It's a fairly heavy drybrush to make sure there's plenty of paint coverage but not so much paint that it no longer has that dusty look as you apply it.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/510/dsc01132s.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/510/dsc01132s.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 434px; width: 300px;" /></a><a href="http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/9956/dsc01133v.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><span style="color: #cc0000;"> <img alt="" border="0" src="http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/9956/dsc01133v.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 432px; width: 300px;" /></span></a></div>Step 3: Gryphonne Sepia wash. There's nothing fancy about this, just a wash all over the armour. As this is a rank and file mini I applied a second wash once the first had dried (second picture). For a character I'd maybe only do the one wash to keep the colour a little brighter.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/1531/dsc01137d.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/1531/dsc01137d.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 397px; width: 300px;" /></a></div>Step 4: Gryphonne Sepia is used again but this time for shading instead of to alter the colour. Painted into all the recessed areas of the armour. For example: Under the cheek ridges of the helmet, around rivets, the grooves in the knee armour, where the armour meets the belt, animal skull, lapel bits, shoulders around the cloak, where the extension of the helmet that holds the horns joins joins the helmet proper. Any areas that are next to a raised edge need to be shaded and obvious areas where there'd be less light such as the back of the helmet below the level of the cloak.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpKuamjivEvoj-RyjyipgSQJiwRk5nXU5fyL1BnjQj2Rld3awKP9CgDggiEQrf_KFMxT0O7v7g7oAvIS8Cc2z52Zt7VWkb8yOFTqudQYNJc_yPkJeIbzKy5089cEBKwMg8aVAvSgwdbhI/s1600-h/DSC01138.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5400241501120414322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpKuamjivEvoj-RyjyipgSQJiwRk5nXU5fyL1BnjQj2Rld3awKP9CgDggiEQrf_KFMxT0O7v7g7oAvIS8Cc2z52Zt7VWkb8yOFTqudQYNJc_yPkJeIbzKy5089cEBKwMg8aVAvSgwdbhI/s400/DSC01138.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 401px; width: 300px;" /></a></div>Step 5: Edge highlight. Bleached Bone again here. On all the raised areas and edges of armour plates. Normally I wouldn't do this until I had painted the rest of the mini as I can easily correct any mistakes from earlier at this stage.<br />
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There you go, not a brilliant tutorial as I rushed this Warrior a little but I hope it's helpful to anybody who is interested. I'm far from a great painter so if anybody has any better methods or just general advice I'd love to hear it. </div></div>Black Bardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08112485219629037405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4511312244734260668.post-40380090074438355052010-11-10T09:50:00.000-08:002010-11-10T09:50:33.728-08:00Dwarf beard Tutorial by:Kuffeh<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Blonde Hair By Kuffeh at <a href="http://thegrumpystunty.blogspot.com/">The Grumpy Stunty</a> or <a href="http://the-tradingpost.blogspot.com/">The Trading Post</a></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Being a dwarf player, blonde is often a colour I want interspersing my units and characters but it can be hard to paint a convincing blonde. I have come up with a method that works rather well.</span></div><a name='more'></a><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">You will need</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Mini</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Brushes</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><span style="font-family: Calibri;">Paints; Calthan Brown, Snakebite Leather, Golden Yellow, Kommando Khaki, Dheneb Stone, Skull White and Gryphonne Sepia</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Each layer should be quite thin, as not to obscure the hair strands. Also multiple layers will most likely be required for each step. Bear that in mind.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">For this tutorial I have used a random dwarf body and painted only the beard. I am not being careful of the other parts of the mini as this is just for practice, on the actual mini you will want to be careful of other parts - especially existing painted parts. I also started with a black undercoat.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt;"><br />
<span style="font-family: Calibri;">Step One</span></div><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5378734784018121666" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgb3Svye3axUD7C76ZGP_R5OaKCEPmQXF58m85k3fyrxok-oYPufKotuhNkJU8gyYBiTzdJYF-TzHO49xcHyup7_kd86AqiBF_1Gcm6kd3d1eb_VAlTSEspylzw7PTDDZlwMZdP3njcSCw/s400/blonde1.jpg" style="display: block; height: 398px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 308px;" /><br />
The basecoat is Calthan Brown. Paint it all over the hair (from here on in, the beard) until you have a nice solid colour.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Step Two</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSKJU4yN4Dt90RA3rA5746XhV9w9Dpkrd208K8tZ0Qs1EVR2N_hexuq5v_iziS8jr-t9739oUNKAApGLEZmHBIufa8OYrV74eIU7nxHmKyN-juMGefANWnC9c97un4P3Tk8913SdLzniQ/s1600-h/blonde2_1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5378734793593543746" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSKJU4yN4Dt90RA3rA5746XhV9w9Dpkrd208K8tZ0Qs1EVR2N_hexuq5v_iziS8jr-t9739oUNKAApGLEZmHBIufa8OYrV74eIU7nxHmKyN-juMGefANWnC9c97un4P3Tk8913SdLzniQ/s400/blonde2_1.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 400px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 252px;" /></a><br />
The next layer is snakebite leather. Paint this all over the beard, but try to leave the basecoat in the deepest recesses of the beard and next to facial features or body parts.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Step Three</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUMy3eg24nkkjesTyq_grYKf9wlbE5AJERtkBaUBcmT8DntW-UU14beCy3IzkzTlwpQnMiZdrpGQTyeBMP2RRpEB64fxsFljnGOM1GHquG630EzhgxoXF-KpnvhxmIROtx83sNXWhekv4/s1600-h/blonde2.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5378734793414511106" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUMy3eg24nkkjesTyq_grYKf9wlbE5AJERtkBaUBcmT8DntW-UU14beCy3IzkzTlwpQnMiZdrpGQTyeBMP2RRpEB64fxsFljnGOM1GHquG630EzhgxoXF-KpnvhxmIROtx83sNXWhekv4/s400/blonde2.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 400px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 286px;" /></a><br />
Add a small amount of golden yellow to the snakebite and reapply to the previous layer. This will give it a more yellow tone, something blonde has.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Step Four</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSFCYvxD-Ej6t0n5UUsuS0TlGtLiTj3L8znwAh1z6lt9XYQJZYu526smEHfB6ON7ZPv9fvuTFA2vwIe_9FXb-WC9stiOnr-Uw8dQCrZ0_8ECZJzx3IhyKP-jxSHomaysMDtGJSVklQmWc/s1600-h/blonde3.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5378734798306981330" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSFCYvxD-Ej6t0n5UUsuS0TlGtLiTj3L8znwAh1z6lt9XYQJZYu526smEHfB6ON7ZPv9fvuTFA2vwIe_9FXb-WC9stiOnr-Uw8dQCrZ0_8ECZJzx3IhyKP-jxSHomaysMDtGJSVklQmWc/s400/blonde3.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 400px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 279px;" /></a><br />
Add a small amount of kommando khaki to the snakebite mix. The khaki is a neutral colour and has a way of lightening without it gaining colour - it sort of mutes the colour.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Step Five</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKRM-nDXufRaAdxnwUkE-gyddIfZpYjw0K6yBgpTEBDl5slGcclujbm8Czjt4pVOgu2ubcQlTpW2LOGWH8k-jOCyJRBY_uFA80Id3KvfvseT6iS0JLbCws_hw-7QBgCcYoLsKyPGCLug8/s1600-h/blonde4.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5378734806927767954" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKRM-nDXufRaAdxnwUkE-gyddIfZpYjw0K6yBgpTEBDl5slGcclujbm8Czjt4pVOgu2ubcQlTpW2LOGWH8k-jOCyJRBY_uFA80Id3KvfvseT6iS0JLbCws_hw-7QBgCcYoLsKyPGCLug8/s400/blonde4.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 400px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 264px;" /></a><br />
Now add some dheneb stone to the mix. This does a similar job to the khaki but is lighter in tone. The more you add the lighter the blonde will be at the end. It is also worthwhile to start picking out individual hair strands at this point.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Step Six</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilgc3lk-T5WhSO3DTq4wijU0qy_OxaG2GqQo-aWywcBmAmK_QrEStziutUiQTyQRkA5x0C_18DsBlKieHOrIi_N9_ZaT60aWvUHK1MzlcYxb9g2QENqrnEyEky1YEvp1C_uB9spYqnbLI/s1600-h/blonde5.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5378735326802729698" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilgc3lk-T5WhSO3DTq4wijU0qy_OxaG2GqQo-aWywcBmAmK_QrEStziutUiQTyQRkA5x0C_18DsBlKieHOrIi_N9_ZaT60aWvUHK1MzlcYxb9g2QENqrnEyEky1YEvp1C_uB9spYqnbLI/s400/blonde5.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 400px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 280px;" /></a><br />
Here I have added some more dheneb stone to highlight the beard more.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Step Seven</span><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiClheMeijuT0bD7u8RswI1o92dfJysogzjlPrbNgOWgHblNb19bdC_aisUSyXz7-yOcU01L6j2lkT06EpvYtguyUyz7wcRajkb5l7VlqiA_TliIKeRdU4rmuJka9DiIEmL1f9dCIuPnzw/s1600-h/blonde6.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5378735336058244482" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiClheMeijuT0bD7u8RswI1o92dfJysogzjlPrbNgOWgHblNb19bdC_aisUSyXz7-yOcU01L6j2lkT06EpvYtguyUyz7wcRajkb5l7VlqiA_TliIKeRdU4rmuJka9DiIEmL1f9dCIuPnzw/s400/blonde6.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 400px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 273px;" /></a>Add some skull white to the mix. Again, how much determines how bright it'll turn out. Again picking out individual strands makes the beard stand out and look more than just a flat tone.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Step Eight</span><br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGLEwV0IyfSOLh3ErcToVYmh4iEYSHQBJfSE-1xqIP8VQQwloZ2-0sfHG0Set2Y7l8nVzE-2rCYfufWMD96fkK3w8d9Dv-qXNA7PCJUCMMBWKYBgU98fj3-Oe8ZwesE_RFApl-30YaCJE/s1600-h/blonde7.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5378735341100868002" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGLEwV0IyfSOLh3ErcToVYmh4iEYSHQBJfSE-1xqIP8VQQwloZ2-0sfHG0Set2Y7l8nVzE-2rCYfufWMD96fkK3w8d9Dv-qXNA7PCJUCMMBWKYBgU98fj3-Oe8ZwesE_RFApl-30YaCJE/s400/blonde7.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 400px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 259px;" /></a><br />
Wash the beard with gryphonne sepia. Don't just slap the wash on, try to add thin layers of the wash, allow to dry and repeat until happy.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Step Nine</span><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5gHyoOpGDdh-mySdsnGz-a8xEWBcl36HlLPeZBO8xhCqrEc6JTXLEYirj1s92c0ADEJuRokIepHURSTRK_F0dN2NZscLProrZWfHg24M6191ifer79wOzJsp0FEMPxuoC_NookoPW0Rg/s1600-h/blonde8.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5378735346726674418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5gHyoOpGDdh-mySdsnGz-a8xEWBcl36HlLPeZBO8xhCqrEc6JTXLEYirj1s92c0ADEJuRokIepHURSTRK_F0dN2NZscLProrZWfHg24M6191ifer79wOzJsp0FEMPxuoC_NookoPW0Rg/s400/blonde8.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 400px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 279px;" /></a><br />
<br />
Reapply the highlight from step seven, again looking at highlighting individual strands.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Step Ten</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifsqRrI0KY3vgbO586vkgtwB2QeB-3IKqQ4LGZbkcQbgDhnfNjMxYALxvBays9Lq0_IyfzwXfylEX-EOGXWJi1JJRSgIRUytN5xb3Wvoxnr4RSxxYqBH2EapWamh1ck2j0LqsbfRE_1iA/s1600-h/blonde9.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5378735352217885538" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifsqRrI0KY3vgbO586vkgtwB2QeB-3IKqQ4LGZbkcQbgDhnfNjMxYALxvBays9Lq0_IyfzwXfylEX-EOGXWJi1JJRSgIRUytN5xb3Wvoxnr4RSxxYqBH2EapWamh1ck2j0LqsbfRE_1iA/s400/blonde9.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 400px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 284px;" /></a><br />
The final layer is to add more skull white into the mix. This is used to pick out the most prominent strands. Such as the moustache and parts of the central braid.<br />
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That is it then done. A nice blonde beard.Black Bardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08112485219629037405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4511312244734260668.post-34028648857898506682010-11-09T21:31:00.000-08:002011-02-01T18:04:11.039-08:00Building a paint rack Tutorial by:Nesbet<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Monday, November 8th, 2010 <a href="http://nesbetminiatures.blogspot.com/">Nesbet miniatures</a></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1158/5134081349_a76f2a46fc_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="cssfloat: undefined;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1158/5134081349_a76f2a46fc_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Let me show you the device that will hold all my paints (hopefully, soon) wich I had begin building last week:</div><a name='more'></a><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4011/5134681214_c7c3bccff2_z.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4011/5134681214_c7c3bccff2_z.jpg" width="320" /></a>To build this one (that's unfinished, BTW) I used a single 1x2" wood stick, a box of 1 1/2" screws and a silly amount of plastic tube clamps. If you click in the image, you'll see that the grey things that hold the pots are just those clamps used to attach tubes on the roofs/walls. =D</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1401/5134683352_8ffa5cc0de_b.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1401/5134683352_8ffa5cc0de_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">How did I get to these idea? Quite curious.<br />
Wasting my time on the internet, I found the amazing <a href="http://www.miniaturescenery.com/CategoryPage.asp?CODE=CAT_ACCP"><span style="color: #888888;">Miniature Scenery racks</span></a>. Yeah, they are freaking AMAZING. You have just to glue them and voilà! The thing is I don't have 250+ USD to buy such a amazing combo of racks, neither the space to field it. After realizing that, one day walking on the street, I passed near an Rexel Electra shop. I saw the glass cabinet trhough the window and discovered those things. No idea how to call them in english. I bought one (yeah, one! think in the face of the seller) to measure and run some tests. Short story: size A was to small for the citadel pots and size B was much too big and it would be a waste of space.<br />
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So, I thought about changing all those awkward pots for dropper bottles. I use to dilute a bit my paints, and I like mixing them. And I hate wasting things. Don't get me wrong, it is not about being Scrooge, it is about control, and not wasting insane amounts of paint, letting it dry in those pots! I found cheap empty dropper bottles here in Chile (in another city, BTW) and buy some to try them.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4041/5134679068_3c7eb96b6b_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4041/5134679068_3c7eb96b6b_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
They fitted pretty OK in the clamps, but I didn't liked how it turned out with the paint. As you can see, the paint tend to stay in the inner walls of the bottles, just like in the citadel pots, promoting the paint to dry faster. And I also didn't like the size of the drops; it was just too much paint for one drop.<br />
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Well, I always hated the screw tops paint pots and loved the old old OLD citadel paint pots, back from the years of the 2nd or 3rd editions of WHFB. After <a href="http://wargameguru.weebly.com/in-focus-review---coat-d-arms-acrylic-paints.html"><span style="color: #888888;">some research</span></a>, I confirmed that nowadays, Coat d'Amrs, Privateer Press and Wargammes Foundry still use those amazing paint pots.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1082/5159564291_293d33090d_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1082/5159564291_293d33090d_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
So, I decided to discard the idea of the dropper bottles and try to get the pots I always loved xD<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1235/5134079283_da0b28e103_b.jpg"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1235/5134079283_da0b28e103_z.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>I started searching for anyone selling the pots, empty with a price more affordable than CdA (5 pounds for 10 pots with 30% for shipping O.o!). A very nice user from Warseer, <a href="http://www.warseer.com/forums/member.php?u=1659"><span style="color: #888888;">Verm1s</span></a>, told me (in a <a href="http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=281483"><span style="color: #888888;">thread I started in WS</span></a>) about an oline shop that sell the pots for only 0,21 pounds each (if buying more than 100, that is my case). <br />
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The thing is, that *@#€&! store don't want to sell the 120 pots I want, because they only send to Europe and the US. ¬¬U<br />
I'm now thinking what to do in order to be able to buy these freaking pots!! I don't have any relatives over there and after begging the chick from the store to let me buy the pots, all I got was:<br />
<br />
<i>I'm afraid we only post these pots to Europe.<br />
<br />
Sorry,<br />
<br />
Linda</i> <br />
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Well, in the meantime, while figuring it out, I'll be able to complete the rack and build its sister!<br />
I intend to add 2 or 3 more ranks, to make the rack hold 51 or 60 pots. I haven't decided yet, but I think I will make two 60-pots racks, in order to have all my paints there and enough room for the next 20 colours I would like to buy in the near future.<br />
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What do you think about it? Have you ever built a rack for your paints? What do you think about mine?<br />
Any idea on what should I do to buy the pots? 51, 60 or 68 pots per rack?<br />
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See ya next time!!</div>Black Bardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08112485219629037405noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4511312244734260668.post-51898124591159756972010-11-07T13:40:00.000-08:002010-11-07T14:36:41.006-08:00Skaven painting tutorial ~ Plague Monks by:BlackbardEarlier this week I saw someones conversion efforts in making their plague monks unique and interesting. Of all the current skaven models, I dislike the plague monks the most. They are flat, boring models. I had debated on how to paint the models so they would look better than they otherwise would, but compared to the plague furnace monks they just stink. Anyway, rambling aside, this poster had created several fantastic looking monks by using the undead ghoul torso. I had to try this.<br />
<a name='more'></a>I was thinking of simply posting the entire process as a tutorial again, but decided that several posts as works in progress might allow me to post my thoughts on the process in more detail.<br />
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I will be the first to tell you that while I love converting models, I am not very proficient using green-stuff. So, with that disclaimer out of the way, understand that I plan on cleaning up the green stuff that is on the models. I want the sculpting material to have a chance to dry and harden, the ghoul torso's are in the shape of a `V` while the cut monks have an obviously flat surface.<br />
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I started by taking the plague monk and my handy little saw and cutting the torso off just over the belt. I then plunked a blob of green-stuff onto the legs and then pushed the ghoul top into this. After a few minutes, I took my hobby knife and trimmed a good amount of the excess off, while pushing as much as I could into the gaps on the sides.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHCeW_zUj_13aAVVRKGwdWDsEDBlrh1dhs6DeFMKfOVlNb7pAvoBEx4sVQiiBbv-F-b2O4gpKS4IgKuyQAu7Q-bCxFrRCGv7UJ8lp1k_FhyGOCfTpe2TH7Z6NLY17g_mlSlLtYLhl56Mb6/s320/P1000317.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One torso missing</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHCeW_zUj_13aAVVRKGwdWDsEDBlrh1dhs6DeFMKfOVlNb7pAvoBEx4sVQiiBbv-F-b2O4gpKS4IgKuyQAu7Q-bCxFrRCGv7UJ8lp1k_FhyGOCfTpe2TH7Z6NLY17g_mlSlLtYLhl56Mb6/s1600/P1000317.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF1NYDA-fSXbPR_n-MkrXbiIbNTosip5Qp23SlO2p7f_-ctuQxS9ZaN6xq6OyfvKEmqLcPdpMEIbjr2oaRP3lVC7tDyQOvAuCmqFH9zKBEC2VUqLG-XyC0Edc1qYa4giJdpN7v4RTCFx7i/s400/P1000318.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One torso later</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF1NYDA-fSXbPR_n-MkrXbiIbNTosip5Qp23SlO2p7f_-ctuQxS9ZaN6xq6OyfvKEmqLcPdpMEIbjr2oaRP3lVC7tDyQOvAuCmqFH9zKBEC2VUqLG-XyC0Edc1qYa4giJdpN7v4RTCFx7i/s1600/P1000318.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>I have put together eight of the little brutes, mainly to try making the model, but also to spice up my unit. The next part will be to clip the neck off the torso and file a flat surface for attaching the skaven monk head on. Hopefully I won't need a lot of green-stuff to make it look good!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgev6mcdUzeUuT3s6ykdDuRh8pta3iYAP2zG-24FYJ-IPFILcbO8O4OQix40b97lsi0ZtE4s_2rlWaJmUfBxJ-tocuW_hhCEoZpzNLFYog3uh7ZHcqvdyj38PZFdb3zmtZ7hsb2YX3z-t3q/s1600/P1000319.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgev6mcdUzeUuT3s6ykdDuRh8pta3iYAP2zG-24FYJ-IPFILcbO8O4OQix40b97lsi0ZtE4s_2rlWaJmUfBxJ-tocuW_hhCEoZpzNLFYog3uh7ZHcqvdyj38PZFdb3zmtZ7hsb2YX3z-t3q/s320/P1000319.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt7Hj6QsVH_0on3GLF1DHn7FMo3hPXD4iu4-58PKz2JQzCgPnGr5FTESKqHt7Egszxyb-dLh5o8lEDM7RZ8Dd8GzSnaG0FvdxmszAGgvJ8vCr9F31oNY2VDMy5CTErIxb8rePPxgjf0eDL/s1600/P1000320.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt7Hj6QsVH_0on3GLF1DHn7FMo3hPXD4iu4-58PKz2JQzCgPnGr5FTESKqHt7Egszxyb-dLh5o8lEDM7RZ8Dd8GzSnaG0FvdxmszAGgvJ8vCr9F31oNY2VDMy5CTErIxb8rePPxgjf0eDL/s400/P1000320.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Let me know what you think!<br />
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Cheers, BardBlack Bardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08112485219629037405noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4511312244734260668.post-88270228429040434672010-11-07T12:33:00.000-08:002010-11-07T14:37:33.867-08:00Skaven painting Tutorial ~ Clanrats by:Blackbard<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">My Skaven have become a craze for me lately. I have not only enjoyed painting them, but feel that they are looking remarkably good for the number of shortcuts I have introduced into the normally time consuming method I use. To this end I have made a<br />
<a name='more'></a> tutorial that I hope readers will enjoy trying out on their own models.<br />
</div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiiHeB5y1RNHTd_XG6PwdXETNAynzr71V1kygXTyo-yDFJTp3Stxa3P4WtveS3fwKWN-EiovdstAR7f3t9Iy6M08zpPtJHfWowBDa_vIz8wg6GhJIwdT8ZXo5YFnit38t4g_4ucaaPCRjK/s1600/P1000309.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" nx="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiiHeB5y1RNHTd_XG6PwdXETNAynzr71V1kygXTyo-yDFJTp3Stxa3P4WtveS3fwKWN-EiovdstAR7f3t9Iy6M08zpPtJHfWowBDa_vIz8wg6GhJIwdT8ZXo5YFnit38t4g_4ucaaPCRjK/s320/P1000309.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Step 1 and 2</td></tr>
</tbody></table>1.) The first step I clean the models of all mold lines with a sharp hobby knife. Once it is cleaned I glue it to the base and glue (white glue) my gravel mixture onto the base around the model. My mixture consists of several different grades of gravel…from sand to a larger black mixture I got at my nearest mall’s hobby shop. Once this is dry I sprayed the entire model using Army Painter “Rat Fur”. I really like how well this product covers the model evenly and smoothly. (No more TAR clumps for me!)</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
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<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">2.) I mixed up a batch of English uniform and white (both vallejo products). With this mixture I paint all the cloth areas. I always try to stay “inside the lines” as this can help the speed of getting the model done. If you want to give the model even greater depth, dry-brush/or paint some highlights by adding white to the cloth mixture. My other step here is to cover the metal bits in GW chainmail. It may sound a bit bright for the Skaven, but after you have applied the washes by the end, the metal areas are very dirty looking.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCx-22XMDUB4G-zfuvGGq2wn6d2_GOhyphenhyphenlicz73AzznWi_zAgW6WTgbf3zXKUhx4xsoYBpWpwvwsFHBvbFlHhYSfi-7CzKKfybvtWR769fZHkk-MQ2Gwk52sPAto8k6XHLfXvncAUNNZlZk/s1600/P1000310.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" nx="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCx-22XMDUB4G-zfuvGGq2wn6d2_GOhyphenhyphenlicz73AzznWi_zAgW6WTgbf3zXKUhx4xsoYBpWpwvwsFHBvbFlHhYSfi-7CzKKfybvtWR769fZHkk-MQ2Gwk52sPAto8k6XHLfXvncAUNNZlZk/s320/P1000310.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Step 3 and 4</td></tr>
</tbody></table></div><br />
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<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">3.) Here I have added pure Vallejo English Uniform to the weapon shaft. I also dab mechrite red onto any metal areas I want colored. I dab in a controlled randomness, aiming to have a lot of the metal areas showing, with the red looking like it has been chipped off or rubbed off where the metal plates would touch. There is absolutely no reason to be super careful here, especially with a rank and file model.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
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<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"> <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAVMdqz63EBP8y0IzlCIDfHBq5x4y6CtlyARt10dJyF9OGY29QdRGB6litjr_Od2mJlVYkd-XoqwaJ9-X-gXp0vnpthck6MjK_goEhVByM7auorBKtL3VnF8wqrZejj-KSyW39kQ_ScQym/s1600/P1000311.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" nx="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAVMdqz63EBP8y0IzlCIDfHBq5x4y6CtlyARt10dJyF9OGY29QdRGB6litjr_Od2mJlVYkd-XoqwaJ9-X-gXp0vnpthck6MjK_goEhVByM7auorBKtL3VnF8wqrZejj-KSyW39kQ_ScQym/s320/P1000311.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Step 5 and 6</td></tr>
</tbody></table> 4.) The base is attended to here. I use Basalt grey first. I follow this with a dry-brush of Basalt mixed with white, about half and half for this mixture. The edge of the base is painted black.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><br />
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<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">5.) P3 midlund flesh is my flesh color of choice for the Skaven. I have it in a GW mixing pot though as I had my P3 pot break. I try to leave some of the primer Rat Fur in the creases and of course where there would be fur! DUH! Also give the nose a touch of black to the nose here. I know GW and many others don’t paint the nose black, and I have been told my Skaven look like dogs because of the nose, but I really like the effect.</div></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">6.) Mix some midland flesh with white, a consistency of 60% flesh to 40 white. Water the mixture down to get good coverage…but not too wet or it will run. I also add more white for one last pass around the muzzle. Teeth, nails and horns can either be painted white or bone color here.</div></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVj5GD9OoSIOqwT24FtGistA_8omFMD3IkmGRBNGGiYta8gozLyfHjTlnVYg52vuRhTnlWGwPevSZFr3CffSu5LHpo0imlXnwb4JypcCpHSwobtbTFlPL0WZxC4vsxHOAdhRjsOYEi_EPF/s1600/P1000312.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" nx="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVj5GD9OoSIOqwT24FtGistA_8omFMD3IkmGRBNGGiYta8gozLyfHjTlnVYg52vuRhTnlWGwPevSZFr3CffSu5LHpo0imlXnwb4JypcCpHSwobtbTFlPL0WZxC4vsxHOAdhRjsOYEi_EPF/s320/P1000312.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Step 7 and 8</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">7.) Leather, cloth and any other fiddly bit gets touched here. This is also a good time to clean any last mistakes that you see. Highlight the skin and any other bits by adding a bit of white to the mixture. The contrast shows nice in the next step.</div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEienMB0kTlHw5nbgms_b7Cx56dvfh8z6gnvN0Um7bj-20Y1H3ylKgrjYiP0obYAh_E56jb-1zMhonePvaxYafgCWTWnoMGi0izt9M4QuzZH5d4fjYGzxFdQKfs9GZKWveDLzJbyW50qQ53N/s1600/P1000313.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" nx="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEienMB0kTlHw5nbgms_b7Cx56dvfh8z6gnvN0Um7bj-20Y1H3ylKgrjYiP0obYAh_E56jb-1zMhonePvaxYafgCWTWnoMGi0izt9M4QuzZH5d4fjYGzxFdQKfs9GZKWveDLzJbyW50qQ53N/s320/P1000313.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Step 9 and 8.a</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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8.) Wash Everything with Devlan Mud! Nice and wet, and make sure everything is covered.<br />
8.a.) Let the wash dry.<br />
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9.) Rust it up. I use my new forgeworld powders, along with a mix of Burnt Umber oil paint and mix it all with Turpenoid (a white spirit)…lastly I water down Vallejo fiery orange (which of course I forgot in my pictures) and dab some onto the brown rust areas. It’s a great effect.<br />
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I hope if anyone gets the chance to try this recipe they let me know how it worked for them. I found it very simple to use, and I really like the results.<br />
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Enjoy!!<br />
cheers, BardBlack Bardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08112485219629037405noreply@blogger.com0